On the Ides of March, we went out for a taverna meal at Omalos, the first time we went out for the year. It had been just after Christmas when we last went out for a meal as a family, again in the vicinity of Omalos. Taverna options are more limited in winter. It's so much easier to stay at home and cook, rather than brave the cold. It may have been a bad day for Caesar, but it turned out very well for us.
The air in the Omalos valley was very crisp and the snow still very visible, but there were definite signs of spring coming. Had I not been through a bout of pneumonia, I would have liked to take a wander around the valley, because it seemed eerily quiet when we were there; very few people seemed to be up in the valley on that day. The eateries of the area - all known by the name of their respective owners - are usually very busy on a Sunday afternoon, but not today. The days of a full house and the Greek tendency to over-order may become a thing of the past now that the economic crisis is being boomed down on us during every news report on every channel. It could be that we have been brainwashed into believing that things are not going well and we should be more careful with our spending. Then again, some people might be feeling the pinch for real. If it weren't for a large party of guests who had come on the occassion of some mutual celebration, the place would have been pretty much empty, as most of the other tavernas in the area, judging from the number of cars in the parking lots.
We chose to sit at Koutroulis taverna, a favorite haunt of the hunting fraternity in Hania. The tavernas in the Omalos valley were all established to serve the purposes of tourism, the oldest one in the area being formally built in 1954. Omalos was never a traditional settlement; hunters and nature lovers shared its few facilities which all serve up very traditional fare with meat being in the spotlight, as well as wild greens and local delicacies, the kind of food traditionally eaten in villages and cooked these days by grandmamas. Don't come to Omalos and ask for fish or seafood; such an uninformed request is about as culturally inappropriate as expecting silver service and crystal glasses in a place like this. The emphasis is on the freshness of ingredients, traditional cooking techniques and well cooked food.
To get an idea of the place, think of animal hides, pre-industrial ploughing implements, a warm fireplace, old-fashioned shepherds' knapsacks and loom-woven rugs. Items fitting this description were displayed around the cosy dining room, lending a general remoteness to the ambience, strengthened by the view of the cloudy mountains from the windows.
The fur is from a hare, the head is from a zourida (the local variety of ferret).
The display may be an eyesore, but the owners are probably very proud of their kerata.
We chose tsigariasto goat, locally made spicy sausages, pork steak (not pictured), staka dip and boiled mustard greens, washed down with locally made wine (and a locally produced lemonade for the children). Main meals are usually pretty hefty, which is why we ordered only three, to share among the four of us.
Dessert is always on the house: fried kalitsounia smothered in honey.
Στην υγειά σας, everyone!
Sounds like a fantastic place...of course it is the foods that would draw me in!
ReplyDeleteU would love to someday hike in the valley. There is a cooking school (probably several) on Crete that I have had my eye on for a while.
ReplyDeleteIthela na sas pw poso exw kollisei me to blog sas, to diavasa olo tis teleutaies 5 meres pou to anakalipsa! Exei o mbambas mou katagogi apo tin kriti kai arketes apo tis sidages sas mou thimizoun poly ta pragmata pou protimaei na trwei. Tous teleutaious mines, exei bei kai i mitera mou ston kosmo ton bloggers. Einai sto http://bettyscuisine.blogspot.com/. An exete ligo xrono, tha xarw poly na akousw ta sxolia sas. Elpiza na sas aresei.
ReplyDeleteKiki
hello kiki
ReplyDeleteyour father must come to crete and keep company with my husband - if i didn't have him, i would never cook like this, nor bother to write about it!
I just found your wonderful blog! You have so many great looking recipes and interesting information about your life. I'll visit very often!
ReplyDeleteIt is so nice to see you out and about Maria.
ReplyDeletePetros came home on Friday. He got ALL his business taken care of. Spent about 35,000 euro in Santorini, but thats another story! Taxes!!
At any rate, we are going to Greece in Sept for a vacation. We havent been there for fun in at least 5 years. Its always been someone is sick,, memorials, tax problems, etc.
We are so happy to have this taken care of.
Once again, it is so nice to see you out and looking good:)
35 euros only?? The food looks great and I bet it was tasty too.
ReplyDeleteMaria, I am so relieved to read that you are now fully recovered. I'm happy that you were able to get to the Omalos and enjoy a meal out. The taverna looks like a comfortable and cozy little spot. Interesting decor there, I took particular note of the foil wrapped antlers to the side of the mantle piece. It just proves yet another use for aluminum foil as the ultimate cover-up/concealer. I have some funny stories about just how and where I've seen it used. Aluminum foil can camouflage many unsightly or outdated projects and most especially in kitchen area. We once arrived only to find our kitchen entirely covered... floors, walls, counter tops, drawers, shelves, cabinet doors, et cetera. It was one bright and shiny sight.
ReplyDeleteFelt like I was there while reading your lovely post. I remeber the last time you wrote about Omalos I felt the same. The food looks great and the 35 euro price tag sounds too good to be true. We want to scream every summer we are in Greece and have to eat out because each and every time we do visit a taverna, especially in Kerkyra, we spend upwards of 100 euro for 4 adults (and 2 children under the age of 4 who eat from our portions anyhow). And when you are on "vacation" (as much a vacation as it can be with little ones) and trying not to think about cooking yourself so much, it is daunting to think how much you have to spend to eat out. So this summer we're planning on approaching things differently ... which means I will be cooking more often than not!
ReplyDelete100 euro is a lot of money on a meal out
ReplyDeletehere are some golden rulesmy husband follows when we go out for a taverna meal (i don't follow them when he's not with me):
1. don't order bottled wine (wine can end up costing you as much as the meal)
2. the more modern the look of the taverna, the more expensive it will be
3. the shabbier the appearance of the taverna, the more likely a mama or grandmama will be cooking, and hence the more likely the food will be traditional and extremely good
love this sort of taverna, and i just love the sort of food they serve, from Sydney OZ Leonard.
ReplyDeletei hope one day you come to crete leonard, and eat like a cretan
ReplyDeleteI do like your husband's rules, especially with regard to wine. Here in the US, the markup is incredible - it could easily be upward of 200% the cost of the same bottle purchased on your own. My husband and I enjoy eating in 'dives' - the food is often straightforward delicious and the price so much more reasonable. I don't necessarily like paying extra for 'ambience' - I'm too busy focusing on the food and the company to pay too much attention to my surroundings.
ReplyDeleteYour meal at the taverna looks absolutely delicious but then again, so was the roast at your uncles' and the dishes that you've created at home and posted here!
Maria, one of the first signs that one is over their ailment is the return of their appetite. Sthn hgeia'sas, love the taverna!
ReplyDeleteSo good to see you out and about! You look great, so I hope that means you are feeling better! The meal you ordered looks so good, especially that sausage! YUM! So, who took the picture of your and your hubby?
ReplyDeleteLooks like a perfect outing. Glad you were able to enjoy yourselves!
ReplyDeleteBTW-we follow the same rules when going out to a taverna and are almost never disappointed. The house wine is always delicious.
Spring is a lovely time to spend some family time outside. The food from the taverna looks great!
ReplyDeleteIt sounds like you had a lovely day out. 35 euros for a meal for 4, with wine sounds pretty reasonable. It certainly looks like the food was well worth it.
ReplyDelete