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Monday, 20 October 2008

The real Greek lives in London (Ο γνήσιος 'Ελληνας ζει στο Λονδίνο)

Stavros recently posted some photographs of a Greek festival that took place in his part of the world, Maine, USA, where people living far away from Greece are maintaining customs and traditions that their parents passed on to them when they first emigrated from poverty-stricken Greece. Hermes from Australia thought the whole idea of staging a Greek festival in Maine was more like an American's nostalgisised attempt to hold on to an ancient culture whose language he can't speak.

Up until I was five years old, I didn't know I was a Greek. I thought I was just a diminutive form of the people who I was surrounded by: my parents, aunts and uncles, neighbours, the landlord, our friends. Everyone spoke the same language, went to the same church, had similar names (Kosta, Nikos, Yiannis, George for men and Maria, Toula, Soula, Voula for women), and ate roughly the same kind of food. All this was taking place in 1960s Wellington, in the suburb of Mount Victoria where many of those people lived at the time. This was the only world I knew up until 1970.

clyde quay school 1978
(7 of the 12 12-years-olds in this photo are of Greek origin;
Clyde Quay School, 1978, Wellington, NZ)


Then I started school, and that's when I realised that there were people who spoke my home language, and people who didn't. The people who spoke Greek were usually the same people as the ones I came across at church, while everyone else was some kind of 'inglezos' - English - or 'xenos' - foreigner. Greeks never considered themselves to be part of the 'xenos' category. I only realised I was the xenos when I was first labeled 'Greek', in the same way that I (and others) labelled people form other cultures, for example, Chinese or Indian. The only exception to this category was 'Maori'; they weren't 'inglezos', and they couldn't be 'xenos' because they were the indigenous people of New Zealand. They were 'maouri', as my parents' dialect called them.

My MA thesis (1991) centred around Greek language use in the Greek community of Wellington. One of the conclusions was that the Greek language was being maintained in the home, mainly by people who had direct contact with immigrant Greeks. When there are no immigrants in the home environment, maintaining the language through the generations becomes very difficult. This happens across all immigrant communities whose direct contact with the country the language is spoken in has been lost, due to permanent settlement away from the lingusitic environment. The Greek communities should be one of the first to suffer, in any case; only Cyprus uses Greek as a main language. In contrast, the Chinese language will continue to spread, because there is a constant influx of Chinese immigrants to countries all over the world. Greek migration has pretty much stopped; Greece is no longer a country of fleeing emigres.

So what happens to those people who called themselves Greek, then lost their language through the generations? Do they stop calling themselves Greek? During the course of my interviewing Greek people from all walk of life (I had to interview at least 100 people, and ensure that I had a good range of ages and generaitons), I also came across people who didn't speak the language very well, or whose children did not speak it at all. They still called themselves Greek, and they insisted that that's what they told people who asked them about their strange-sounding names: "I'm Greek," they all insisted.

The feeling a person has of his/her Greekness has never centred around the Greek language. There are many other factors involved. If the Greek language was one of the main defining factors in "engagement with Hellenism" as Hermes insists, surely the Greek communities of the disapora would have died out one by one, instead of flourishing, as they are still doing, judging by Stavros' and Laurie's reports of Greek festivals in Maine and Alaska, respectively. Clearly, religious choice is a more defining factor in the expression of Greekness than language - and if there were no Greek Orthodox church organising a Greek festival, there would be no festival.

Hermes, when your veins run Greek blood through your body, you cannot but be a Greek. Eventually it will become evident somewhere somehow, evn if you have tried to ignore it in your life, and that's when you will be caught by surprise, when you realise that you are a Greek and can no longer hide it.

I will never forget a visit by a Greek politician to New Zealand in 1990, because he made one of the most condescending remarks I had ever heard made towards a Greek born outside Greece (up until then, that is, as I heard many more after I came to live permanently in Greece). He had just been given a guided tour round the Greek community halls of Wellington when he chanced upon a meeting being held by the young people of the Greek community. "Κοίτα να δεις, μιλάνε Ελληνικά", he said, ("oh, look, they're speaking Greek") gawking at us like we were aliens. It was one of my closest encounters with a Greek politician. Once I came to Greece, I realised that there were also many other people like him who did not regard us as Greeks equal to himself. Maybe we weren't Greeks just like him, because we had better manners, in any case.

Every non-Greece-born Greek will probably have asked themselves this question at some time in their life: what is it that makes them say they are Greek, when in fact that they were born in Australia, New Zealand, Canada, or any other place in the world, except Greece? I think I just answered the $64,000,000 question (which has drastically depreciated in value just recently) of who is the real Greek:

the real greek
(Souvlaki chain restaurant found in the UK; this branch is located across the river Thames, on Southwark Bridge Road, London).

Who would have thought that a souvlatzidiko in the 'xeniteia' (the word Greeks use to mean a place away from their own homeland) would have provided the answer? What an elitist group we are.

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12 comments:

  1. Interesting post. In my experience, "Greeks", of my generation, born outside of Greece to Greek parents are truer Greeks than the Greeks in Greece (don't try to say that sentence drunk!).

    Greeks who emigrated decades ago seem to bye truer to the traditions, and language of their day as they have not been diluted by other cultures as Greece has somewhat been today.

    My mom emigrated to Canada in the 60's - and even now that she has moved back to Greece, they think of her as a foreigner who speaks very good Greek - even though she is born and raised in Greece. If anything she embodies more of the traditional Greek culture and language than Greeks do today having been diluted by western culture and language.

    Certainly the Greek that was taught to me at home was more Cretan (my mom is from Xania) than Greek. I don't have the Cretan accent, but there are some words which I was taught which I found out later were Cretan (and perhaps pre-60's Cretan).

    In some respect, 2nd Generation Greeks overseas are a bit of time-warp to what Greeks used to be.

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  2. By the way - may I hazard a guess that the tall chap at the back of the school photo is Māori?

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  3. Here in Canada and the US, the language remains for the 1st generation born here as they have the luxury of Greek also spoken in home.

    Greek also survives well in cities/towns with a good-sized Greek population.

    The language loses grip on the next generation, as evidenced in many Greek-American communities. There are Greek-American grandparents who are born in the US, speak little Greek but identify themselves as Greeks and practice their Greek-Orthodox faith.

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  4. When people ask me where I'm from I answer ,"Australia"...and I always explain that I'm a Australian of Greek descent.

    This is the fairest answer and trust me I struggled a long time as a teenager to figure out where I stood with that. Aaaah! Identity...this topic I can discuss for hours Maria!

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  5. Greeks outside the metropolis of Athens is valuable asset of Hellenism!

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  6. Hi Maria, Loved your post. I read it three times, and will no doubt read it again. I especially liked your line about veins running Greek blood throughout your body. So true! Living in a virtual cultural melting pot, I love it when communities celebrate their heritage and keep the links to those who came before them alive and well. Some of the condescending remarks you've encountered remind me of the insecure school yard bully, trying to make himself seem more important or acceptable. I just roll my eyes. Oh, I wish you could stop by my house so we could discuss this more. You've raised so many interesting points here, and you've presented terrific insight into something that I can directly relate to. As always, GREAT post!

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  7. Maria, this is a most interesting thought provoking post. To my way of thinking, if you were born outside of your parents home country I feel you would still be Greek, or whatever nationality your folks are. Especially if you speak the language and follow the customs.
    In my case, I moved to USA many, many years ago, but I will always be a Kiwi in my heart.

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  8. This is a very interesting post. I visited the Maine site that you mention. I live in Maine too. The world gets smaller all the time.

    My neighbor is half Greek and half Italian. She was born in the USA. She doesn't speak Greek that I know of. She is the most kind hearted and warm woman I know and would do anything for anyone. This is the great Greek part of her ... her heart and soul!

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  9. p.s. But I know what you are talking about because I am "French".

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  10. My city also has a thriving Greek community. We have a large Greek festival every year (put on by a large Greek cathedral, of course; it was supposed to be last weekend, but due to the hurricane it was rescheduled) and many Greek-Americans, even those born here, still speak Greek (the Greek churches and schools here include Greek language classes.) I used to frequent a coffeehouse run by the Greek mob (they're all nice guys!) and I remember our waitress, a really fun American-born young lady around my age, telling me that it's a good thing the non-Greek customers didn't understand Greek... when they were rude, she would talk about them in Greek :)

    We can even get Greek food 24 hours a day, which makes it one of the staples of Houston culture, in my opinion :)

    What seems to bind Greek identity in Houston is the sense of community. I think the church helps to preserve that community, but so do all the families and businesses that support one another in Greekness :)

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  11. Also, I find posts like this so very interesting. It is a window to a different world for me, one that I suppose most people on the planet live in, but from which I feel excluded. Most Americans still have one dominant immigrant culture that they identify with, even if only superficially- people who are 10th-generation Americans will still say "I'm Irish," or "I'm Italian." As I am biracial, I've never had that sense of singular identity: I have always been neither one thing nor the other.

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  12. Although I believe language is important, and especially important to try to preserve, it is not what defines an ethnic group. To me it is culture. And living someplace other than the "homeland" means the traditions may change, but many do not.
    I live in a Hispanic population. It is sad to me that the third generation never knows how to speak Spanish. I chastise my friends to speak only Spanish to their children at home. But you are right that it is difficult. But because they cannot speak Spanish and because they have some American traditions does not mean they are any less Hispanic. I guess any group tends to be elitist in given situations.

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