Zambolis apartments

Zambolis apartments
For your holidays in Chania

Tuesday 12 May 2009

Zaharoplasteio (Ζαχαροπλαστείο)

The sight of a full display case of creamy cakes is a common one all over Greece. The ζαχαροπλαστείο (zaharoplasteio) is where you come to buy cakes to take as a present when visiting friends, to treat your guests when celebrating a nameday, or simply because you feel like treating everyone at your workplace. Few people bother these days to make something home-made and bring it with them (like we used to in New Zealand, but this may have changed there too). You'll be surprised to learn that Greek people are bound to eat one of these calorie-laden, cholesterol-busting, artery-choking temptations from a zaharoplasteio on a weekly basis, whether they bought it themselves, or someone else treated them to it.

zaharoplasteo egaleo athens
So much choice makes choosing difficult...
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Even though many of these sweets look completely different from each other, they actually have a very similar taste: they are all creamy, fatty and sweet. Take the second shelf from the top: they are all a form of πάστα (pasta) which in Greek means 'cream cake' (we never use the word 'pasta' to mean 'spaghetti'; the generic word for this in Greek is ζυμαρικά - zimarika). They all look different, but every single one of them - starting from the left, there's sokolatina, black forest, amigdalou and pasta sokolatas - consists of very thin layers of sponge (madeira) cake (either chocolate or vanilla) and thick layers of (chocolate or vanilla) whipped (but not fresh) cream or custard with a different decoration on the outside: chocolate coating, chocolate snow (and cherries), vanilla cream and almonds, or chocolate cream. The ones on the last shelf - kourambiedakia, kornedakia and trigonakia - are all made from puff pastry (in different shapes), filled with whipped cream (once again, not the fresh stuff). Only the shape is different; the taste is exactly the same.

kok
Koks - these were so fresh, they were sticking together...

The different appearance of each one gives each type of 'pasta' their individual name. This particular one - what appears to be an individual round portion of an XL victoria sponge cake, with custard cream in the middle of the cakes, topped with chocolate icing - is called a 'kok'.

kok
XL κωκ (kok); the ingredients list does not mention the cream...

It sits in its own paper case. Nancy insists that these cakes are pronounced something like 'coke. I've never even once heard 'kok' pronounced 'coke'; I've only heard it pronounced as in 'cock-a-doodle-do'. Maybe an American will pronounce 'kok' as 'coke', just like s/he would say 'spanacoa-pira' instead of 'spanakopita' (-coa- as in 'coat') - but I doubt it...

kokakia sweets zaharoplasteio
Kokkakia - little koks; how would you ask for these? "A dozen little koks, please". This reminds me of the way I usually buy malaka (by the kilo). Last Christmas I had to buy reindeer horns for a Christmas pageant costume: "Have you got any kerata? I'd like to buy some, please."

Kocks are also made in a smaller size, which is sold by the kilo, each one sitting in a paper case. They're called 'kokkakia', which translates to 'little kocks'. So why are they called cocks? Is there anything cocky about their appearance in the first place, with their round shape and soft cream filling in between the two spongy cakes? Must be something to do with French...

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19 comments:

  1. LOL! I'm so glad you brought up this whole "kok" thing! i can never ask for it without laughing!

    I love Greek pastes BUT-and a big BUT-they have to have fresh cream! I can't stand that mock stuff! I only found a few places that still use fresh cream in Sparti and I was delighted!

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  2. It's a shame they all taste the same, and the fake cream sounds disappointing. It would be great if you could bet a good version.

    Funny translation too!

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  3. Coming home with a box of pastes (am I pluralizing that correctly?) was - and still is - always a treat in our house, because we live several hours away from the nearest zaharoplasteion. If I ever saw them as a child, it was because we or some other family member had gone to Montreal, which is a good 8-9 hour trip by car. There was this one little shop called "Melissa" that was the best, it was run by an older couple, and had a red bee on the cardbox boxes the cakes came in. Eventually the couple passed away and the shop closed, so we get our sweets now from a place called Serrano's, but they're not as good. When I lived in Ontario I lived in the same town as a Greek bakery/zaharoplasteion, but I had to take two different busses, it was in a bad part of town, and I never found the quality to be that high so I only went if I really felt as if I needed some Nescafe frappe coffee (something else I can't buy where I live now).

    I've got to admit though, I've never had a kok (my parents always went for the syrupy, creamy cakes, and not the cream puffs), but I always assumed it had to do with Coke, as in Coca-Cola, but I've never seen a recipe for them that has suggested that they have any in them...

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  4. Most "zaharoplasteia" in Greece use so many fake products (powders of all sorts instead of eggs, milk, cream and chocolate) that it is one of the main reasons I decided to make my own sweets. And I'd rather take a bottle of wine to someone, than a fake piece of gateau.

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  5. Go traditional, have fruit for desert!
    Alexandra

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  6. I was down in Florida last year and the town I was staying at had a big Greek community. I remember devouring the heck out of kocks while walking around.

    So good!

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  7. Oh! Maria and I love so much sweets!!

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  8. Oh those things are awful!! When I visit my relatives in Greece, they go "all out" since I'm visiting from Canada, and take great pride in serving me these things. I feel so bad, so I always take half, but oh dear are they terrible to choke down.

    But even worse are those chocolates and sweets wrapped in coloured foil. Because those keep so well, all the giagiades in my xorio have them (since they only leave at most once a week for the agora which is at the base of the mountain, if that). When I go visit, each and every one of them brings one out with a glass of water, and they can't understand that I don't like such sweets! Of all the food-related atrocities, these have to be some of the worst.

    (Don't get me wrong: I love cake, and cream, and chocolate and all the other vices... but not these!!)

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  9. Every time we visit Greece, I am so excited to visit a zaxaroplasteio and get a look at all the desserts behind the glass casings, only to be disappointed when I actually attempt to try one. You're right, the creams are rarely fresh and even though things are shaped differently they end up tasting the same. I can't say there has ever been anything distinctive about a dessert I ate in Greece (except for things such as Galaktoboureko, Bougatsa).

    Here in New York there are so many great bakeries and sweet shops. In Astoria, there is one I specifically go to for Greek, one for French and another for Italian. They're all well-established, 40+ year old shops that use the freshest of ingredients all the time. I wish I could find even one such bakery on my short trips to Greece.

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  10. I have put on so much weight just looking at those cakes!

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  11. Maria, I don't believe I have tasted these pastas before. I don't recall seeing these cream cakes back home. In Turkey, we use the word "pasta" for many types of cakes and cookies.

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  12. Maybe it was blind luck, or the particular shop, but when I tried these in Cyprus they were really good. And, I'm pretty picky. My daughter married a Greek man, and we were visiting his family. One of the things she said she missed on our return was having such a great bakery nearby. Though, this was 3 years ago.

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  13. Oh my goodness I cannot wait ! Koks are what I was treated to as a child in Athens which I would describe as miniature boston cream pies. My dad was Cretan and we emigrated to Canada when I was 3. We are renting a villa near Vrisses for in June (yea !) with the whole family in tow.. We fell in Love with Apokoronas two Easters ago and I have been hankering to return. ( My husband is a doctor I wonder if he can be persuaded to do a locum there :)

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  14. hi claudia: actually, these pastries are very tasty, i like pastas every now and then, but of course, i dont bring them into the house myself, simply because i know that they are made with artificial ingredients (read food junkie's comment), and without a doubt, they are fatty and unhealthy. yet, when someone brings them to us, they are a big treat!

    hi mad housewife: maybe we can meet up in vrisses then!

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  15. Maria-- thanks for the hilarious account of the sugar sculptor. I like to have one of these pastries sometimes in the same way I will have a candy bar a few times a year. All in moderation! And they do wrap them up so nicely. It's fun to give the boxes as gifts when visiting, as the Greeks often do. As you so deftly imply, it's all about appearances!

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  16. There are still some good, old time patisseries (zaxaroplasteia) in Greece and one should be commended on the a fine choice in purchase.

    Agreed, the bad ones should be avoided but there are some gems that have a loyal clientele.

    Kok anyone? lol

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  17. I don't dare to buy such treats these days,but its hard to avoid them in parties.No wonder my kids get sick after indulging in such desserts .

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  18. But they look so good . . . A previous comment mentioned galaktoboureko - I'll take that anytime!

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  19. Hello from Heraklion,
    I am Fahej es Feta, your new recent reader. Yes I am newly married here, with a cretan man. Thank you a lot your whishes. I am sorry that you cannot read my blog, but i'm planning now to start one another blog wiht the same theme in english.
    When i moved to Greece i was astonished how the zaharoplasteio look like here. I felt that a whole life is not enough to taste all these fantastic things. We dont have such a good pastry shops in Hungary.
    I love your blog! I learnt a lot of things from you!

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