Friday, 7 December 2012

Uncle's treat

While visiting an uncle at the local village cafe-taverna last night...

- Χρόνια Πολλά, θείο Νίκο!
- Well, aren't you going to sit down, then? It's my treat.
- I've just come home from work. We really need to get back home, and...
- Well, you need to rest then. Sit down.
- OK, just for a few minutes.
- So what am I going to treat you? Souvlaki, steak?
- We've just popped in to say hello, uncle!
- OK, just a souvlaki then. What about you, kids? You'd like a souvlaki, wouldn't you?
- Um, no.
- OK, and what will you have to drink?
- Um, nothing.
- Just water.
- Water with the souvlaki? OK then. Hey, Ilias, two souvlaki for the kids.
- We didn't say anything.
- What did you say you were having to drink?
- Just water, thank you.
- And one coca-cola, Ilias.
- Can I please have a gazoza instead?
- Who, you? OK, who wants the coca-cola then?
- I'll have it!
- And one gazoza, Ilias, and get those souvlaki going! What are you going to have Maria?
- Oh, I'll just have some fries, then.
- Don't you want any sausages with that?
- No, not really.
- Ok then, two sausages, Ilias, got that? What's your husband having?
- I'll be fine with a nip of tsikoudia, thanks, uncle.
- A pork steak then. Ilias, make that two!

The photos are from a previous similar occasion at the same venue, but the story is always the same. A visit to these people inevitably means a treat.

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Thursday, 6 December 2012

Barbecue

The last time I went into a LIDL supermarket branch in my town, after paying for my purchases at the cashier with my credit card (LIDL Greece used to accept only cash in the recent past, but I guess old dogs do learn new tricks after all), I was given a voucher to take part in a draw for five 'lucky' winners (from all over Greece, mind you) who would get their liquid heating fuel paid for that year. All I had to do was fill in my details on the ticket. Since we aren't using liquid fuel for heating any more, I offered my voucher to the person standing behind me in the queue.

 
 The picturesque character of this scene relies on keeping olive trees trimmed, so that their shape and size makes it suitable to harvest the fruit efficiently.

"Oh, I don't need it either," she said to me. "We've got a fireplace." We both laughed, and I offered it to the next person. Same thing; I don't know who got it in the end, and it really doesn't matter anyway; the point is to show how useless prizes can be, and how cut-throat competition is between supermarkets.


It sounds 'obscene' (as one reader put it) that "(a) in the 21st century we're burning trees for heat, and (b) in Greece, land of the burnt-our-arsoned countryside, we would actually deliberately burn our last trees for short-term benefits". To put it bluntly, it also sounds absurd that this is what Greek citizens have been reduced to - burning anything flammable just to keep warm. The greenest and most noble among us will be burning nothing and keeping warm by wearing coats under our blankets (this is not a joke; it's quite true, no matter how difficult to believe it may sound). Calling Greeks arsonists is not far from the very common habit of the mass media depicting Greece as a country full of lazy, cheating, violent, rude, racist, tax-evading, troublemaking, thieving vandals, all part of the latest trend in 'crisis pornography'; η κρίση πουλάει, as we say in Greek.


Long branches of olive trees with many twiggy tops (known as φούντες - tufts) make up the bulk of what is burnt on the field. Only logfire wood is marketable. Olive leaves are also used as fertiliser, but the twigs and branches do not have further use in Crete at the moment (they may eventually  be worked into pellets for pellet-burning heaters). It is too costly to remove them for burning elsewhere and they are difficult to dispose. But they need to be cleared from the field because olive trees need regular trimming - things grow quickly in Crete.

Olive wood burns very easily, so once a fire starts up in an olive field, it could easily get out of control if not watched properly. But lighting fires in olive groves is actually very common all over Crete. As long as there is no wind, a fire can be contained easily. The remains of a clearance come in as useful cooking apparatus: the barbecue. Pork steaks are the bbq meat of choice in Greece. Lamb chops are much more expensive, and beef is never seen on a Greek barbecue. Barbecues nearly always consist of charcoal - gas barbecues are simply not very common. The wood-scented aroma of the meat is particularly fragrant - and very tempting.


When my husband clears wood from the field, he thinks it is a waste not to use the remains of the fire. It's a perfect time for pork steaks and sausages.

You need: 
the charcoal embers of an open fire 
a folding barbecue grill that holds meat securely 
a rake
some rocks 
heat-resistant gloves
4 pork steaks
4 sausages
2 lemon halves 
salt, pepper and oregano

 

Place the rocks on the ground and rake the embers between them. Make sure there are no flames. Secure the meat and sausages in the grill. Rub the grill on both sides with the lemon halves. Place the grill on the rocks above the embers. Sprinkle salt, pepper and oregano over the meat. Wearing heat-resistant glove, check the meat and turn when it is cooked on one side. Season the meat on the other side and cook till done. 
 


If it's warm enough, you can stay at the field and picnic around the fire. We just made it back to the car when it began raining heavily just after the meat was cooked. At any rate, our olive grove is located on a hill and there is just enough standing room on the terraces where the olive trees are rooted. Not very comfortable - one wrong move and you could end up rolling down.

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Wednesday, 5 December 2012

Home and hearth

Supermarkets are quick on the mark to cash in on our misery.


Who would have thought that 'barbecue equipment' would be coming in handy at the beginning of winter? Matchsticks are clearly making a competitive comeback, while fireplace knick-knacks such as stokes and brooms to sweep away the ashes can be bought as cheaply as €2.50 a piece.  The chairs are labelled 'near the fireplace!', which is a clear indication of how Greek people are heating their houses these days.

Keeping warm and toasty...

If you have any doubts about that, come out of your house and smell the wood smoke...

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Tuesday, 4 December 2012

Lazy pie (Tεμπελόπιτα)

The zucchini is now starting to become rather watery if it isn't used up quickly. A quick and easy way to use it up quickly before it turns bad is to grate it and put it into a pie. I've already blogged about the history of this easy-to-make pie before, so here's the quick version of a smaller edition of the pie, which I made last night.


Mix together 500g grated zucchini (or marrow), 2 beaten eggs, 200g mizithra (or crumbled feta cheese), 1/3 cup milk, 1/3 cup olive oil, some cornmeal (enough to thicken the batter without turning it into a dough), salt and pepper. Pour the mixture up to 1cm into a medium-sized baking tin (or pyrex dish). Bake in a moderate oven for about 45-60 minutes, until golden.

There are many other versions of zimaropita, which means 'dough pie'; it also happens to be called 'lazy pie' (τεμπελόπιτα), because it's so easy to make, and 'naked pie' because it is self-crusting and doesn't need any pastry. You can use tomato instead of zucchini, and you can even turn it into a sweet chocolate pie. It depends on what you have in your kitchen, eggs, cheese and cornmeal forming the base of the pie.

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Monday, 3 December 2012

What with so much good weather at the moment in Hania, it was a perfect opportunity to take an evening stroll. Together with my friend, we walked in some of the oldest parts of the Venetian port, where the cobblestoned roads made us trip over often.



My infatuation with boats continues. The sepia tones are natural (this is a one-click shot); combined with the retro low-seater, it looks like I took a trip back in time. Maybe it looks like the 60s or is it the 50s? I know it's 2012. Some things won't change much where I am.

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Sunday, 2 December 2012

Cheap 'n' Greek 'n' frugal: Leafy green rissoles

I started off yesterday making spanakorizo with 2 spinach roots, which I discovered were not enough to make a meal for the four of us, so I added some Swiss chard leaves as I was preparing the spanakorizo sauce. I realised what a mistake this was from the aroma coming from the pot - it was too sour! Rather than risk hearing my family's objections, I decided to find another edible way to use the mixture. Here's what I got: leafy green rissoles.


Clean 2 spinach roots (stalks and leaves) and 15-20 large Swiss chard leaves (very stalky bits removed). Finely chop all the leaves. Sauté 1 finely chopped large onion, some finely chopped parsley and 2 cloves of garlic in some olive oil. Add the leaves and the juice of 2 grated tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper. Cook till they wilt. When the mixture is cool enough to handle, squeeze it to remove all excess liquids. Add 4-5 tbsp chickpea flour and shape into short fat rissoles. Roll each one in breadcrumbs and pan-fry quickly over high heat in very hot olive oil, turning them to cook on all sides. Drain on absorbent paper. Serve with spicy red sauce.

This recipe yielded 17 rissoles. Spinach can be used to replace the Swiss chard (but not vice-versa - Swiss chard can be a bit too sour on its own). Plain flour can be used instead of chickpea flour, and flour can also replace the breadcrumbs. In half the mixture, I added some mizithra cheese (you can use crumbled feta instead) - the vegetarian as opposed to the vegan fritters were definitely tastier. Bottled Asian sauces are a perfect accompaniment. 

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Saturday, 1 December 2012

Zucchini in sunlight

Photo: being the only descendant living in crete of two unmarried farmer uncles, i am never out of vegetables"Looks like you went to the λαϊκή," my husband remarked, when he saw a baking tin full of tomatoes and peppers, four broccoli heads and a large cabbage head. This is our private joke which we crack every time one of us visits my uncles' farm. They have spent most of their lives living in the same village and cultivating their land. They grow nearly everything: potatoes, onions and garlic, zucchini, eggplant and fennel bulb, lettuce, cabbage and even bok choy (I gave them seeds from a friend last year, which they allowed to go to seed and they have replanted them this year).

 Whenever I visit them, I hardly ever leave empty handed. Sometimes it's just one pomegranate, other times, it's a bag of cucumbers, and there are also times when it's a crate of pears. Since I am their only living descendant in Hania, I get a lion's share of everything. 


When the Chinese leafy vegetables began growing, my uncle phoned me to let me know. "The Kinezoi have arrived," he said.

It reminds me of something my aunt once told me. She had had serious financial problems when she was raising her family, and when things were very rough, she often stayed on the farm with her brothers. Even though these events are from a time long past, she always acknowledges the help of her younger brothers, insisting that their help sustained her throughout those periods of hardship.

The brocoli became a warm salad with tahini dressing.

Whenever I pick up this fresh produce from my uncles' farm, I feel that I'm reliving those past times of other family members. At any rate, I know I wouldn't buy much of this even if I didn't have access to it. So if my food is colourful and looks less boring, it's because of a lot of hard work that has gone into growing it to get it on the table.

 Summer-planted zucchini, sunbathing in our winter garden - 24°C today, even if it's December!
A broccoli head may sound insignificant because we aren't going to survive on just broccoli, but I'm saying that now because we haven't reached the bottom of the pit yet. If and when we do, it should be remembered that there is light at the end of the tunnel - even though it's winter, sunny weather is always round the corner in Crete.

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Friday, 30 November 2012

Computer lessons (Μαθήματα Η/Υ)

About a month ago, my workplace decided to offer the staff a subsidised computer training course - you are paid for attending lessons. It meant staying at work for a few hours after you finish, something very few working wives and mothers really want at a time in their lives when they are already too busy. I was roped into taking part because the minimum attendance number had not been reached. The five 3-4 hour-long lessons are now keeping me at work until 7-8pm on the days that the course runs.


My evening work at MAICh gave me a glimpse of the evening meals enjoyed by the students: soup is always on the menu, followed by meat or fish, with at least one carbohydrate, and the ubiquitous salad and fruit.

Kitchen and ground staff, as well as some of the younger members of the administration staff, were all taking part. They are generally people who do not spend all their time sitting at a desk with a computer on it. I wondered what I really needed to learn about computers that I didn't already know. In the first lesson, I thought the answer to that was 'nothing': one of the first things we did was to 'learn' how to turn a computer on, and then we learnt that the Windows screen kept the same things on it that our office desk would have, were we not to be using computers. OK, I thought, as I silently read 'other material from my secret cache.

 


  The family still have to eat: I prepared the dough, and some instructions on how to cook a pizza.

The next day, I realised I had lost a memory stick where I kept some files I was working on at the time. Luckily for me, I did have back up copies of my work, but admittedly, like all people, we are sometimes lax about things like that, and my files weren't completely up to date in terms of back up. I fretted a little. Maybe that's why I need computer lessons, I thought.

The second lesson proved much more exciting - the very well informed info-tech instructor advised us about how we can jaz up our WORD files. WORD is a program I use regularly, and if I had time, I could make all those graphics discoveries that I learnt about in the lesson all by myself. But time is of the essence and I don;t have time to much around on such things. After the lesson, I went home to download some files that I had sent to myself through my workplace's intranet. Alas, I was to discover that the internet wasn't working.


 I specifically reminded them to take photos for me.

What to do now? I fretted, much more than the last time. I had lost the memory stick, the internet wasn't working, so I was now stuck. The next day, I noticed there was still no internet at home. I went into work early, frantically downloaded/uploaded/saved whatever I could onto a new memory stick. It was then that I noticed the black memory stick, wedged between the computer tower and a black file box. I still had time to write a little post about how my kids had their first no-adult-supervision cooking session while I was away. To my horrors, Blogger did not seem to be working. I gave up and got on with 'real' work.


I was pleased to see that the house hadn't burnt down when I arrived back home, and I was equally pleased to see the results. The kids have seen me roll out filo pastry dough, so perhaps this is why they made a mistake with the pizza dough -they were trying to roll it out too thinly. But if they hadn't made this mistake yesterday, they wouldn't be better pizza makers today. I called their pizza creation 'omelette pizza' because it turned out to be much easier to eat it folded up.

So here I am back at home. I've backed up my file register, the internet is now working, but I found I still couldn't write anything on Blogger. I did a quick internet check, although I admit that it took me a while to find an appropriate search string to give me the information I wanted: for instance, 'blogger down' led me to some entries about similar problems that took place over a year ago. The best one was 'can't (WITH the apostrophe, take note!) write a new post blogger', where the latest entry had appeared only half an hour ago. The 'best answer' to the question had already been posted: 'turn off draft blogger'. And sure enough, it worked.


Despite being too tired to do much, I still found the time to show the kids how it 'should' be done.  Life doesn't get much better than this in our tiny small quiet part of the world.

Next week, we'll be focussing on Excel. Powerpoint will follow, and the last computer course session will be based on the use of the internet. I clearly have a lot more to learn than I thought. There will always be something for everyone to learn, no matter how long they've been using a computer for.

©All Rights Reserved/Organically cooked. No part of this blog may be reproduced and/or copied by any means without prior consent from Maria Verivaki.

Thursday, 29 November 2012

Clogs (Τσόκαρα)

When I was in Holland, I visited an open-air windmill museum in Zaanse Schans. One of the windmills was being used to show the history of the clog, and there was a display in the windmill of how clogs were made. Dutch clogs look kind of strange, and I didn't think anyone would wear them now, as they look so dated, stemming back from a time when people had less and didn't have access to much else - until I saw an older-looking gent wearing a pair of bright yellow clogs as he was riding his bike in a quiet suburb of a Dutch town in the north.


When I decided to buy a pair of clogs (in the Swedish style and not the Dutch, even though they are made in Holland, because I'd really stand out if I ever chose to wear the latter in Crete), my husband thought I was mad. But they suit my kind of lifestyle - I only wear shoes when I have to, and if I can slip them on and off easily, all the better. I was given instructions at the clog windmill as to how to wear them "Always with a thick pair of socks, so they don't cause you any discomfort."

I began wearing my clogs in Hania in late autumn. I noticed that they made a lot of noise as I walked on the bare tiles of the floor, but I only put them on just before I was ready to leave the house. They were relatively quiet on the carpeted areas. But still, they did not pass by unnoticed. I wore them yesterday as I was taking a piece of moussaka to yiayia (which we cooked in the wood-fired heater). She looked down at my feet and said "So it's you who's been wearing tsokara!"

"Oops," I started apologetically. Yiayia lives downstairs from us, so I was obviously making quite a clatter as I walked about the house in them. "I  didn't realise they were that loud, mama, sorry."

"I haven't heard that noise in years," she continued, as if she hadn't heard me. "They were the only shoes we had when I was a young girl, and throughout the war years. Our fathers would hew them out of wood, and nail a piece of leather on top for your feet. Most people didn't actually have any shoes at all, so I was very lucky that my father had made me a pair. And my mother never let me wear them without socks, unlike other children, whose feet were always looking red and sore, because they had no socks to wear with their clogs. And they had no other shoes, so if they didn't wear them, then they'd have to go barefoot. So many children had dirty feet in those days."

"They must have been useful in the fields, mama," I said, hoping to coax her memory to tell me more.

"Well, they never got left stuck in the mud, but if you were walking on the flat road, you often tripped because they were quite slippery. They needed a bit of rubber on the sole, but we didn't have anything, especially when the war broke out. We had nothing, not even any food. And I walked in those clogs without socks to the neighbouring village where we took refuge with another family. By the time we got there, my legs were so red and sore that my ankles had swelled and I collapsed."

Although she went through a terrible ordeal during WW2, she still has the courage to talk about it. Even though she says she'd like to forget those times, it seems that in her older age (my mother-in-law is 88), she remembers those days even more clearly. 

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Wednesday, 28 November 2012

Operation broomstick (Επιχείρηση σκούπας)

Επιχείρηση σκούπας (Operation broomstick): this phrase is often used to denote the random 'sweeping' action taken by the Greek police to round up illegal immigrants. 

It's not difficult to understand why some Greeks are turning to Golden Dawn, directly or indirectly, to solve their problems these days. Their lack of education leads them to think that foreigners (and not Greeks) are to blame for their problems. Their interests are pretty much focussed on how to hog their job without having other forms of cheaper labour sources take it from them. The violent tactics of Golden Dawn party members along with their supporters have become front-page news all over the world. But there are other more sublte and legal ways of showing defying the 'enemy', which inadvertently help the state in their general task, with a surprisingly positive result obtained by legal means. I think this is the road that Greece is going to be taking, not the ridiculous one of total annihilation that is being portrayed in the mass media.

Aποκλειστικές (apo-kli-stik-ES) are nurses that are privately hired by the patient or their care provider (family member), to provide one-to-one attention to the patient. This is usually done because in Greek people's minds, Greek hopsital care is inadequate. I specifically mention 'in Greek people's minds', because I believe it is a mistaken belief: ask our ex-pat residents from Northern Europe to tell you what they think about Greek hospitals, and they will say exactly the opposite from what the Greeks say - that the care and attention provided by the doctors and nurses is very good, and in their opinion, they would not have received similar attention in a UK hospital. I won't go further into explaining this, except to say that it has to do with the great difference in the levels of social education of the average Greek and Brit, and their beliefs (Greeks meddle in doctors' affairs, Brits show greater trust in their health system). Greeks also like to look after their sick family on a personal level, believing that they are the best person to look after them - but this often stems from their non-belief in the state system to do anything correctly. The Greek health sector allows people to stay overnight in a hospital with a patient, so there is no stopping anyone doing this, or paying someone else to do this in their place, which is where the αποκλειστικές come into play.

These αποκλειστικές are all women. They are often trained nurses with many years experience in patient hospital care, who became αποκλειστικές when they couldn't get a job within the state sector (the usual Greek sob story - everyone wants to be a public servant). They have their own union, they often wear a nurse-style uniform, and they do things that a state nurse in a Greek hospital should be doing (eg bathing patients, ensuring that a weak/incapacitated patient eats a meal, helping them to go to the toilet or providing a bedpan, etc), but does not usually do, mainly because the hospitals are understaffed. But there is also the other side of the coin, which is that the state nurses have 'learnt' not to do this because it is tacitly implied that the patients' carers have dealt with this side of the nursing profession. Whatever these αποκλειστικές do, they are - or should I say were - paid very highly for providing these services (which were very reliable). I recall paying about €100 for the most expensive shift (the weekend evening shift: 11pm-7am) in the recent pre-crisis past, when my mother-in-law (who had broken her leg) and my late father (bedridden, suffering from pancreatic cancer) were in hospital. Interestingly, αποκλειστικές often handed out receipts for the fees they charged, because these could be included in a patient's tax return, since medical care of this sort was tax-deductable (one of the few freelancer professions that has usually shown a high level of fiscal transparency), so receipts were always demanded by patients, because they knew that they could claim back on the fees.

I recently heard from a state nurse friend of mine (who will be retiring at the age of 50 next year, and will then begin to receive a reduced state pension, although she is worried that things may change in between these points in time - who cares what the troika asks for, since the merriment of the Greek public sector continues unabated) that the αποκλειστικές have watered down their prices during the crisis. On the one hand, they were forced to, due to the lack of disposable income among their clients; on the other hand, there was a readily available cheaper form of labour: the immigrant. Why hire an expensive nurse when you can hire a willing cheap immigrant to do exactly the same job?

The αποκλειστικές had been working side-by-side for a long time with the immigrant carers, until the crisis hit. My nurse friend tells me now that there are regularly 'sweeps' clearing the hospital of immigrant carers, instigated by the αποκλειστικές themselves. When an immigrant is spotted (in Crete, they stand out for their clothing and accent in spoken Greek, not necessarily for their skin colour or facial features), the αποκλειστικές inform the hospital security guards, and with their assistance, the status of the immigrant is ascertained (if they are legally in the country or not - like Greek citizens, they are required to carry some sort of identification and proof of residence, which comes in the form of a Greek ID card for Greeks). If they are illegals, they are carted out of the hospital (I don't know if the police gets involved or not).

But even if they are legally in the country, that doesn't actually mean that they are legally entitled to work as αποκλειστικές carers. The 'certified' αποκλειστικές have got very conniving in their intentions to keep their job in the crisis. After the immigrant's status is verified, their work status is then questioned: are they working with IKA? ie are they paying into the national social security system? ie are they paying tax on their earnings? Few Greeks bother to pay this on behalf of their hired immigrant labourers, which  provides the latter with entry into the healthcare and pension system, as well as ensuring that the income they are making is being taxed. Of course, this has left a number of patients in the lurch, because no warning is given during these random sweeps. The onus of being a legal immigrant in the country also involves paying taxes if in employment: for this reason, the αποκλειστικές are now a form of state caretaker. But this is now back-firing on Greek citizens who are not quite legal tender themselves. In other words, black market employment is being shown up.

It may sound racist to pick on people who look or sound different, but the tactics of the αποκλειστικές do not involve violence, and they are not being done to get anyone in trouble - this is all in aid of keeping one's job. Indirectly, they are helping the state to achieve what it initially set out to do - to make people pay taxes. My nurse friend tells me that these random sweeps are a regular event at the local hospital, and that these αποκλειστικές are the kind of people that can easily be swayed into voting for Golden Dawn because they see the immigrant as a threat to their prosperity. The subtle difference lies in being able to get the system working for you without having to resort to racism and violence. It's not a bad thing to protect your work, but you have to do it in a totally legal way, without infringing on immigrants' rights to live and work freely. Perhaps the tactics of the αποκλειστικές are providing a role model for others to follow.

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Tuesday, 27 November 2012

Winter (Χειμώνας)

It's not really very very cold in Hania; there's still a lot of sunlight during the day. But the mornings are getting darker, and the early onset of evening means less daylight, therefore less sunlight. Time to turn on the wood-fired heater, which we lit for the first time last night for this coming winter season.


My bright-colured bold-patterned knitting adds a bit of brightness to the long dark evenings.


And so does our food, as usual.

Two ways with black-eyed beans: make it into a soupy stew one day, and then serve it the next day slightly strained with tacos, guacomole, home-made pepper sauce and cheese. Instead of roasting lamb or chicken with fresh okra, I used some home-made bifteki (meat patties).

Now we can truly wish each other ΄Καλό χειμώνα'.

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Monday, 26 November 2012

Golden Dawn (Χρυση Αυγή)

“Third party! Third party!” These cries are often heard among the populace, meaning that extreme far-right Golden Dawn (Χρυσή Αυγή), the Greek nazionalist party, is gaining ground and will have much stronger support in the next elections, whenever they take place. It is believed that Golden Dawn is making inroads all over the country. Their Hitler-style salute is based, they insist, on an ancient Greek way of greeting comrades, they believe that immigrants must get out of the country asap, and above all, the country must be ‘nationalized’ and not ‘sold out’ to foreign creditors, as it is now. It's unfair to say that the symbol of the party looks like a Nazi cross - it's cleverly disguised as an ancient Greek symbol.

The Guardian (UK) has published a series of damning reports about Golden Dawn, claiming that the Greek police side with them, they incite racist attacks and their violent physical tactics have led to the serious wounding of immigrants living and working in Greece inlcuding those who are legally in the country. It is already well known that Golden Dawn members ‘help’ pensioners to withdraw money by providing them with ‘protection’ so they don’t get mugged (older Greek citizens in Greece are generally speaking techno-illiterate), and they also hand out food parcels to Greek citizens only on presentation of a Greek ID card (they also gather personal data on their supporters, which their supporters stupidly hand out, at a time when privacy of data during the Internet Age is often controversially debated, which is just one form of evidence that their supporters are, for the most part, lowly educated, in both educational and social terms). They are also behind racially motivated attacks, based on skin colour, spoken accent and little else – their tactics involve displays of physical abuse rather than verbal policies.

Representatives of Golden Dawn were in Crete at the weekend to speak to their supporters. The Golden Dawn movement in Hania (and generally throughout Crete) is not highly visible, one of the few places in Greece that generally does not show high support for the racist party, although it does exist (their offices are based in Tzanakaki St, in the middle of town). This is possibly due to the fact that Cretans, while mindful of the high visibility of illegal immigrants on the island (begging at junctions, involved in petty crime, etc), do not actually object to immigrants living here, for very simple reasons: Eastern European immigrants have lived in Crete on a permanent basis for a long time now, since the fall of communism, and they are appreciated for their industriousness. Agricultural tasks simply could not be performed without immigrant help; immigrants are also a form of cheaper labour (which happens to be what Greece’s money-lenders are demanding – that Greek labour costs become cheaper).  My understanding is that Golden Dawn supporters are generally not able to make their presence felt in Crete, because the political climate in the island is against them, so they keep to a more underground level in their activities.

The Golden Dawn rally in Hania was, for the most part, peaceful and uneventful. It hardly made local TV news, let alone nationwide coverage. The roads were blocked and there was a great degree of police presence; both supporters and demonstrators were highly visible, with more of the latter than the former. The presence of Golden Dawn on the island was reported by the mainstream press as ‘ανεπιθύμητη’ (undesirable). My husband locked down the cab early in the day, something he only does when he foresees φασαρία (trouble) brewing, which he fears may cause damage to public and private property, although none of this actually happened.  

The Third-Party criers (they are generally not just supporters of Golden Dawn, but also of other parties) also believe that SYRIZA (the complete outsider who happily became the opposition in the previous election, as they themselves admit: “We are not yet ready to govern”) will win in the next election. These same people are also heard saying that Golden Dawn will be the main opposition, which means that they will need to be elected as the ‘second’ party. I hope they get their wish, and maybe even see Golden Dawn as the first party, ie winning the elections, but when I tell them that, they say it won’t happen. Obviously, they do not believe that their dreams can come true. I have a feeling that their dream of seeing Golden Dawn gain enough seats to become a strong opposition is simply just that - a dream in their head just like the ones they see in their sleep. They always wake up back to reality after the event takes place, and the dream does not have a continuation. It may be replayed a number of times, but it does not have a future. 

On Golden Dawn's official site, we are informed that: "With fervor and enthusiasm Cretans welcomed Golden Dawn to the island... The event was a great success, as the Cretans proved that they closed their ears to Syriza supporters and anarchists who claimed it was a 'fascist' rally, choosing to listen to the language of truth, the national language of Golden Dawn!" Their representative (Ilias Kasidiaris, who had a punch-up with the not-very-nice-person-herself journalist-turned-KKE-MP Liana Kanneli live on TV), tells us that they are no longer illegally carrying weapons (as presumably they did in the past) because they now have this right as MPs. He also tells us that they use cheap forms of transport to move around the country (preferring Hyundais to Mercedes and BMW). They make themselves very likeable, don't they?

I’m not a Golden Dawn supporter, but I don’t think this party – which has no aspirations or even any economic program – should be banned. Nor do I believe that my own views (Greeks ruined Greece themselves, their habits as a whole were unsustainable, and they need a bout of austerity to get things under control again) are the only right ones; a small number of my acquaintances (Golden Dawn supporters aren't all skinhead freaks) can actually find something positive to say about that party. Everyone has an equal right to express themselves politically, no matter how much I may personally despise their tactics. But if people really believe that this is the party that could lead them towards a better future, I hope they get their wish, especially since I know that the last time I voted was probably the last time I ever will vote because I will be voting 'no confidence' from now on. The rise of Golden Dawn will help Greece to sink much much lower than she has already, pointing her in the direction of total annihilation. Only when Greece is totally destroyed will she be able to start rebuilding herself in a more positive direction. So something good may actually be born out of their shit.

One thing is sure, and that is that Golden Dawn does not spring out of Greek ideals. Greeks have always revered foreign ways, being quick to adopt what suits them. It is a movement that has European roots, and Golden Dawn is manifesting it with its own Greek style. Perhaps this is what will be its downfall in the end - it's unsustainable.

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Sunday, 25 November 2012

The Mule and the Donkey (Το Μουλάρι και το Γαϊδουράκι)

How would Aesop write his tales if he were alive today?

 

And now, for the latest news, and we start with the top story for the day, as it has been for a number of weeks now, which is the Eurozone crisis. In today’s talks, it seems as though the rift between the Donkey and the Mule is increasing and a compromise is still elusive. The Mule Driver is reported to have loaded the Mule with the same weight as the Donkey – but one could not quite keep up with the other. 

“They kept pace in the beginning,” explains the Mule Driver, “but as we left the level road and began climbing up a mountain, the Donkey showed signs of being unable to manage its load, and it now remains to be seen whether it will be able to cope.”

When asked whether the Donkey’s load was lightened, the Mule Driver did not respond. But reports are coming in stating that the laden Donkey had been seen sinking to its knees, and it is assumed that this has probably happened from being unable to carry the weight assigned to it.

No reports have come in stating that the Donkey got up, and since then, there have been no sightings of it, although it has been rumoured that the Donkey could be heard asking the Mule to take a little of its load, but this has been denied by the Mule, who does not wish to be interviewed.

The Mule Driver reportedly stated that work was underway for the Mule to be loaded with the Donkey’s burden, in addition to its own, but the task has not been completed and talks are set to continue tomorrow, although
no deadline has been finalised for this task.

An anonymous source is reported to have heard the Mule saying that it is getting what it deserved:
“If I had agreed to lighten the Donkey’s load a little when he asked me, I wouldn’t have to be in the position now of having to carry both loads on my own poor back.”

Analysts are now saying that this points to evidence of failed policies. “The Mule is refusing to let the Donkey breathe more lightly, now that the need arises, but this is backfiring onto the Mule, as it looks as though he may end up losing everything he lent to the Donkey.”

Moving on to the second main story for the day… 

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Saturday, 24 November 2012

Money (Λεφτά)

The boys had a date with the barber today.



Mr Mihalis has relocated his salon from the busy centre to the outskirts of town bordering suburbia. He appreciates the peace and quiet of a residential street to the noisy polluted central location of a cramped town.

Apart from the usual framed qualifications and family photos often found on the walls of small local enterprises, Mr Mihalis also has a framed collection of Greece's former currency, the drachma.



As I snapped a photo of it while he was giving my son a haircut, he stopped what he was doing without saying a word, and went to the till where he opened a drawer beneath it. He took out a bunch of papers, and handed them to us to look at. They were photocopies of old drachmas that were in circulation in the 1930s and 1940s.


The 1930s notes had similar denominations to the drachma notes of the 1990s: 1000 and 5000 drachma notes were considered perfectly normal in both periods. After 1941, however, all sense of normalcy was blown apart, with Greece being ravaged by WW2. By 1944, the denominations that the drachma was available in lose all sense of proportion. Try following the commas and the zeros in this series of numbers: 100,000, 10,000,000, 500,000,000, 10,000,000,000.



Mr Mihalis has always found these drachma notes intriguing because he was living in the time that they were being used:
"In the village of Floria where we lived, we had chestnut trees. When we harvested the chestnuts, my father packed two large sacks full of chestnuts and loaded them onto the donkey, and took them to Hania to sell them at the market. When he came back, the sacks still looked full. They were filled with hundreds of drachma notes. He had sold the chestnuts and was paid for them in small denominations of drachmas. During that time, money was worthless. You needed a million drachmas to buy a loaf of bread. If you didn't have your own source of bread, you either gave everything you had to get some or you went hungry."
In the times that we live, the value of money is now seen as a balloon that is ready to pop. When the value of work decreases, so too will products and expenses, because no one will have much money to pay them.

Cost of a boy's haircut: €10; no wonder our summer tourists flock to the local salons here to get a haircut. It's ridiculously over-priced where they come from.

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Friday, 23 November 2012

Rainshine

Autumn in Crete is never highly visible, due to the evergreen landscape. The hills of the Cretan countryside are covered in olive trees, which do not shed their leaves, so we don't get the spectacular auburn-red carpets seen elsewhere in the fall season. The leaves of the tress that do fall often turn brown very quickly because of the temperatures, which are usually higher than one is normally accustomed to when they hear the word 'autumn'.

Autumn usually comes late to Hania and the temperature can be variable throughout the day. There is no better place to observe this than the mountains. The day may start off very fine and clear, but end up very wet.



Rainfall in Hania hardly ever consists of a spastic continuous drizzle. It comes in torrents, and then departs and doesn't come back for a while. Passing showers are frequent. This allows the locals to get a lot of work done on a day when it looks as though it will rain: you just wait for the shower to pass. While we clearing our field, we noticed a few fires in other areas where people were doing the same thing. The day was perfect for this - not too hot, not at all cold, and no wind.


Some of us gathered olives for curing, others cleared the olive grove. 

Although we did experience a good shower at one point while we were in our olive grove, this did not deter my husband from barbecuing some pork steaks and sausages. He felt that the charcoals left from the burning of olive cuttings would go to waste otherwise. We stayed in the car until the rain cleared.

 

We would have sat in the olive grove and eaten our lunch there and then, had it not started raining again, which consisted of a stronger rain shower. Our cheeks had become very rosy from being out in the crisp air, but it was now starting to turn cold. The thunderclaps were so loud that they scared the dog; the lightning bolts could be seen falling onto the hills in the distance.



It was time to call it a day, after spending five hours in the area. We made our way back home and tucked in heartily.

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Thursday, 22 November 2012

Baby octopus pilaf with Swiss chard (Οχταποδοπιλάφι με σέσκουλα)

Here's a one-pot meal that keeps in good shape, which I whipped up last night for today's main meal. I had bought some fresh baby octopus for yesterday's lunch, which I didn't get round to cooking, because the day turned out quite differently to what had been planned. We've also got a lot of Swiss chard in the garden at the moment. Leafy greens pair well with seafood. Only the carbs are missing: voilà, octopus pilaf with Swiss chard.

 I rarely use my white soup dishes for taking food photographs, but I must admit that it makes the colours of the meal stand out magnificently.

Prepare and clean 1kg baby octopus (take out the inky innards and remove the 'eye' in the centre). Place in a pot with a lid and allow to sweat for 30 min on low heat. Drain the liquids, heat 1/2 cup olive oil and add 1 medium chopped onion and 2-3 finely chopped cloves of garlic. Saute with the octopus together for 10-15 min. Add 1 wineglass of white wine and simmer 10-15 min. Grate 1 large ripe tomato into the pot and season with salt and pepper. Add some finely chopped Swiss chard (I used 12 very large leaves) and cover the pot with a lid. Simmer 10-15 min, then take off the lid and stir the contents of the pot. Add 3 cups stock (or water) and 1 cup rice (I used basmati rice which gives off a wonderful aroma). Cook on low heat till rice is done (another 15-20 min).

Swiss chard can be replaced by spinach, and any other seafood can take the place of octopus (prepared appropriately). Basmati rice doesn't swell and clog like other rice varieties, so this dish will re-heat nicely the next day.

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Wednesday, 21 November 2012

Tranche time for Greece

Glossary:
- δημόσιοι υπάλληλοι: public servants
- δημοτικοί υπάλληλοι: municipal workers

The number of workers paid by the Greek state has to be reduced, according to the terms of the Greek bailout. This had been agreed on when the crisis first broke out, but it was never acted on (in fact, more people continued to be hired even in those early crisis days).

Now that it's a done deal, the Greek state is being forced to take action. But what does the state do? Instead of reducing the public sector, it decided to throw the ball over to the municipal sector, asking the mayors of each region to send it lists of the staff that wasn't hired through proper channels, or has only basic education qualifications (ie school leaver's certificate).

Hence, strike action being taken by municipal workers...

The municipality offices of Hania today - ΚΑΤΑΛΗΨΗ: 'under siege' - otherwise known as 'sit-in'

... hence, no rubbish collection.

The whole nation's rubbish bins are spilling their contents on the road.

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