Zambolis apartments

Zambolis apartments
For your holidays in Chania

Saturday, 23 March 2013

Pop up restaurant

While I'm in London, while my hosts graciously offered to take the kids to the Kensington museums, while it's freezing (one degree Celsius)...
... I'm cooking up a little surprise for them.

You can follow it all here.

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Thursday, 21 March 2013

Cool Britannia

The weather is not at all nice where I am at the moment - in a nutshell, it's freezing.


Good thing it isn't raining - the slight drizzle that does fall ocassionally feels like icy drops that do not liquefy, but drop down like snow flakes. It's cold and nasty - good weather for comfort food.



Fish and chips, and pie and mash - and the mushy peas were also good, at Fish and Chips at  theSpanish  Galleon, Greenwich. Cool British food.

Cool Britania.

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Wednesday, 20 March 2013

Borders

On the first tourist-carrying flight into Hania airport, the city of Hania puts on a complimentary buffet for the travellers, containing a wide range of local specialties. This is Cretan hospitality at its best - the food is simple, but the taste cannot be imitated outside the island. The first flight happened to be yesterday at 1.15pm - a Ryanair flight coming from London.



Ryanair offers cheap flights - but they come at a price. You have to obey the baggage rules - but few Greeks are prepared to believe that they will pay extra for carrying 1 kilo more than they should, or that they will not be allowed to board unless they shed some cabin baggage or they pay a 50 euro surcharge for carrying more than the permissible 10 kg. We saw a few of these episodes on the flight out to London.
Receipts are issued on Ryanair for onboard purchases - it feels almost like a safe Greek business!
Although I don't normally order food on board flights, I couldnt resist the Boxerchips, because I know how good these crisps are. They are a little pricey at 2.50 euro for a small packet - in fact, this was one of the most expensive meals I've ever had: 3 packets of Boxerchips, 2 bottles of water and 1 cappucino cost us 14 pounds and 35 pence! The cappuccino cost 3 euro (you could pay in pounds or euro), but I must say it was one of the worst I have ever tasted. I should have ordered water instead - that cost 3 euro for half a litre. Yes, you read that right - 3 euro! Your tickets are cheap, but you end up paying for the water through the nose. 

Rules are meant to be obeyed, so I checked out the rules about everything to do with my flights so I wasn't caught out anyway. When we arrived in London, we showed our Greek ID cards, and I was told by the Border Control UK about how much better it is to have a passport because it is less likely to be forged, something I find hard to believe. I told the officer that passports cost a lot of money these days, but ID cards don't cost anything, and they are also accepted in the same way as poassports in EU countries. She harped on about how ID cards slow down the process at customs because all details have to be recorded by typing in the details of each ID card holder. I was really annoyed to have her implying that I was being a nuisance; after all I know the rules and I obeyed them, didnt I? So I told her that the law should then be changed to allow only passport holders through the UK border and that would solve the problem. But for now, I will use my ID card to enter the UK because it is cheap, and anyway I don't leave my Mediterranean island home on an overseas trip more often than once a year. 

On hearing that, the lady, up until then unamused, unsmiling and very difficult to humour, like most customs officials, smiled and told me how lucky I was to be living in a beautiful place like Crete. Yes, I told her, I do believe I'm lucky. 

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Tuesday, 19 March 2013

The salvation of Europe (Η διάσωση της Ευρώπης)

I wrote this post about a week ago, in anticipation of my first direct cheap flight experience (when RyanAir starts flying the first tourists in and out of its new base Hania) out of the country through my own local airport. For this reason., I wanted it to tie in with the first tourists to come to the island. I'm glad I waited to post it - even though it does not contain any hint of the Cyprus deposits story, it easily ties in well with the issue. 

And before I forget, happy koulouma and a good sarakosti.

Another satisfied customer, I thought, as I read my friend's email:
"What I liked about Crete was the people. I know it sounds like a cliche but compared to the poor service and high prices we paid in [another Greek island], it really made a difference. The tourist doesn't expect to make friends with the tourist business people but the way they treat him tells a lot about the people themselves. How genuine they are and how they appreciate the customer. I know you may not believe me but Crete is a tourist friendly place."
I like Crete too, and I like Crete enough to know that for Crete - and Greece - to remain a good place for tourists to come to and enjoy, everyone will have to play their part. Ignorance is no longer accepted as an excuse for not playing your part in maintaining stability. Nor can you afford to sweep things under the carpet, for someone else to deal with - you have to deal with it.

My plea is not to the locals - it's to the European tourists who come to Greece expecting Greeks to treat them in a friendly courteous fair manner. I'm sure you won't find anything amiss here these days - we can't afford to lose our precious customers. But are you playing your part too, in helping Greece maintain stability? Maybe you don't understand what I'm trying to say; maybe you think I'm telling you not to spread bad rumours about Greece (try googling "Greece tourism" and see what you get) that may make people re-think their plans to come here for a vacation. But that's not what I'm saying at all. Everyone is entitled to their opinion, even if it is misguided. What I'd like to remind you to do does not involve making an opinionated judgment of any sort. It's much simpler than that:

Please remember to pick up a receipt of payment every single time you make a monetary transaction. 

That's all. Every time you take out your wallet, or your purse, or your credit card, and you use it in Greece, please remember that YOU are obliged to pick up a receipt of the transaction, just as much as the shop owner is obliged to give you one. Picking up that useless-looking piece of paper may feel like a wasted effort for you, but it will help our country in many ways, more than you would believe. That damn receipt means that someone is running a reputable business, taxes will be collected, Greece will run more effectively, she will be able to continue to back her debts, she won't be burdening YOU with her debts as much as she did in the past, and her creditors will be able to give Greece the thumbs up for more investment opportunities.

By demanding that useless piece of paper, YOU will be showing Greek people that you expect them to be as fair and honest in paying taxes as YOU (believe that you) are in your own country, and we do often hear about how righteous those sun-starved Northern Europeans are in their obligations to the state. By demanding that Greeks do the same, YOU may even be helping them to learn and get into the habit of being more honest in their dealings with the state. If YOU don't bother to check that the Greek business you have just made a transaction with is providing YOU with a record of the transaction, then don't expect Greece to change - it will be your fault just as much as it is her own. And unfortunately for YOUYOU will be called upon to deal with that too some time in the future, with your own country's EU share of the responsibility.

Greeks are required by law to pick up this flimsy piece of paper in the same way as you are. Anyone making a monetary transaction in Greece is required to do this. While Greeks will be seen as saving their country when they do this, YOU will be seen by your country as a guardian of the expectations that your own country has of Greece to play her role in the continent that links us. Our survival spells your survival - we're in it together, whether we want to be or not.

O καταναλωτής δεν έχει υποχρέωση να πληρώσει αν δεν λάβει το νόμιμο παραστατικό στοιχείο.

The consumer is not obliged to pay if the notice of payment has not been received.

You may be surprised to read the above sign in Greek businesses, but it is now obligatorily being displayed. If you do not see it, you may wish to think about whether it's a good idea to do business with the company you have just chosen. It has not come without a level of controversy: some people leave without paying for their purchases on the pretext that they never received a receipt (see below for some variations on the theme). Maybe they didn't ask for the receipt in the first place; that's when the fault clearly lies with yourself. If you are not offered one, then ask for it.

Of course, it's not just the common people's fault that Greece is in a mess. It's the fault of the politicians, it's the fault of the dealings of the financial world, it's the fault of wrong moves and bad judgment, inaction and incompetence. But if we all just slumped into a deckchair and shrugged our shoulders with a nought-to-do-with-me complacency, maybe Greece won't be the cheap and cosy (not to mention relative safe) place it is now, and you'll have to look somewhere else to go for your annual one or two weeks in the summer sun, somewhere further away which costs more. I doubt most of you will want to do that, especially if you have already experienced the virtues of the Greek sun. If you've already tasted that sun, then you will know it's like an exquisite salty-sweet chocolate melting in your mouth. You can make it melt more slowly by ensuring that it will be there in just the same way for you to enjoy at a later time. Being under the Greek sun is quite a different experience to any another sun-drenched spot in the world; Greece may be in the midst of a serious economic crisis, but she still leads with a unique radiance of her own, which continues to remain unrivaled, unable to be copied anywhere else.


So if you want Greece to remain the little haven that she is in your very close quarters, and to keep things stable in your little part of Europe, please, please, please, PLEASE do not forget to pick up a receipt after each and every transaction. Every little bit helps. And don't forget, it will end up helping your country in the long run, as well as teaching good habits to your fellow continental compatriots. We're all European in some way or another, whether we are a part of the European continent or the European Union or the eurozone. It makes no difference if you use the euro or the pound or another currency in your country - you need to do your bit too. (Picture: Gerasimos G. Gerolimatou, oil on canvas, 80x60).

There are four kinds of people: those who see things happening, those who discuss things that are happening, those who make things happen - and those who wonder what the hell happened. 

So please, please, please, PLEASE, do not forget to ask for that bloody receipt whenever and wherever you spend your money in Greece.

Thank you.

On another note, I remember the sob stories that circulated among expats when the property tax was applied in Greece through our electric bills; these sob stories are now being repeated by expats living in Cyprus. Stop complaining folks, your lifestyle in Greece/Cyprus is of much higher quality here than where you once lived/came from: there is a price to pay for living in a world that is much older than yours.

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Monday, 18 March 2013

Capital by John Lanchester

Capital cities draw people to them (generally speaking - Athens is not quite fitting the bill on this one at the moment) for many reasons, the most important one being that a person can shed the shackles of their past and break the cast of the mould that they fit into before they arrived in the capital. The multiracial and multinational nature of capital cities allows people to express themselves the way they want, and to be who they want to be, without the burden of their past. It is interesting to observe this wide mixture of peoples as they necessarily interact wiht one another. But one thing is sure and that is that these miltiracial and multinaitonal people are not necessarily multicultural - we still like to stay close to our kind.

Capital by John Lanchester deals with a very descriptive account that scratches the surface and delves into the mind of the very separate lives of a variety of different people living or working in the same street of an inner-city London suburb that has seen many changes over the decades, reflecting the pot pourri mixture of the residents and their reason for being in the area: a family of Pakistani immigrant corner shop owners, a high class white British banker's family, a Polish immigrant construction worker, three generations of a white British family, a young rising soccer star from Senegal and his father, a Hungarian nanny, and a Zimbabwe refugee who has not yet been grated legal status in the UK. These people's lives criss-cross with one another, but there is never more than a casual acquaintanceship networking them, despite being in close daily proximity with each other.

The plot of Capital focusses on a mysterious person who raises a certain level of panic on Pepys St by targeting the street and showing photographs of the houses on a blog. Lanchester uses various aspects of these diverse people's daily life to show how different each race/class group is to each other, including food, bringing to the open certain feelings that the people in the story would not normally be so frank about in public. They are things we think about, but do not talk about, out of fear of exposing ourselves to political incorrectness. Britain may be multiracial, but Britain is not really multicultural.

The Pakistani owner of the corner shop is amazed at the plethora of his wares:
Ahmed loved his shop, loved the profusion of it, the sheer amount of stuff in the narrow space and the sense of security it gave him – The Daily Mail and The Daily Telegraph and The Sun and The Times, and Top Gear and The Economist and Women’s Home Journal and Heat and Hello! and The Beano and Cosmopolitan, the crazy proliferation of print, the dozens of types of industrially manufactured sweets and chocolates, the baked beans and white bread and Marmite and Pot Noodles and all the other inedible things that English people ate...
We learn that he is overweight and lacks exercise, so he's probably eating this junk too; the temptation not to try everything you sell, even though you know it is junk, is too great. But we know that he is also eating his wife's home-made Pakistani dishes:
Rohinka brought another casserole over from the stove and put it on the table. There was barely space for it: the table already carried two oven-hot dishes, one of chicken in cumin and the other of stewed aubergines, both of them resting on heatproof mats; a platter of naan wrapped in a kitchen cloth to keep them warm; and a bowl of dal, one of Rohinka’s specialities, something she cooked almost every day and never twice to exactly the same recipe. She lifted the lid of the new dish and a beautifully complex smell of lamb and spices, her recipe for achari gosht, floated above the table in a cloud of fragrant steam. The men made varying murmurs and groans of appreciation. The achari gosht was intended to change the topic of conversation, but it didn’t work.
The globally connected world allows immigrants to keep their food traditions, a comfort they can rely on when enter a new world that hides many suprprises for them:
If Zbigniew had to sum up London in a single image, there would be a number of candidates: a group of young Poles sitting in a flat watching television in their socks; two dustbins outside a house, with a plank of wood balanced between them, to reserve a parking space for a builder’s van; the Common on a sunny weekend day, with exposed white skin stretching to the horizon. But the winner would be the high street on a busy evening, full of young people bent on getting drunk – the frenzy of it, the particular pitch of the noise, the sex and anger and hysteria. Zbigniew had once had a sense of the British as a moderate, restrained nation. It was funny to think of that now. It wasn’t true at all. They drank like mad people. They drank to make themselves happy, and because alcohol was an end in itself. It was a good thing and people want good things, want more and more of them. So, because alcohol was good, the British wanted more and more of it. With drink, they were like Buzz Lightyear: to infinity and beyond!
Zbigniew lives a very frugal life in London, proving that it is possible to do this; his dream is to go back to Poland a rich man, so he can help his parents. He takes turns to cook with his Polish flatmate:
'Your turn to cook tonight,’ Piotr said in Polish. ‘I got some kielbasa from the shop, they’re in the fridge. Don’t eat them all before I get back, OK?’
Zbigniew notices how wealthy the British are; he surmises that this is simply because they are being paid too much money, a prophetic observation given the present state of the British economy:
A boy who grew up in a tower block on the outskirts of Warsaw could not fail to notice marble worktops, teak furniture, carpets and clothes and adult toys and the routine daily extravagances that were everywhere in this city. You also couldn’t fail to notice the expense, the grotesque costliness of more or less everything, from accommodation to transport to food to clothes; and as for going out to have some fun, that was almost impossible. The feeling of this cash leaking away just in ordinary life depressed Zbigniew. But in another sense it was the reason he was here: everything was so expensive because the British had lots of money. He was there to earn it from them. There was in Zbigniew’s opinion something fundamentally wrong with a culture that had all this work and all this money going spare, just waiting for someone to come in and pick it up, almost as if the money were just left lying around in the street – but that was not his concern. If the British wanted to give work and money away that was fine with him... it was a big thing in this country not to seem racist. In his opinion people made too much fuss about it. People did not like people who were not like them, that was a plain fact of life. You had to get on with things anyway. Who cares if people don’t like each other because of the colour of their skin?
When Smitty the anonymous street artist visited his grandmother at her home in Pepys Rd before she was dying of cancer, he drank a lot of tea with her, in the same predictable way that people around the world associate Britain with tea:
‘I’ve put the kettle on,’ said his nan. They went through to the kitchen, Smitty’s favourite room in the house and possibly in the whole world, because it was exactly like time travel to 1958. Linoleum – Smitty loved lino. A Coronation biscuit tin. A proper kettle, one you put on the stove, none of that electric rubbish. The world’s most knackered fridge. No dishwasher. His granddad had been too tight to buy one, and then after he’d died and his nan was living on her own there wasn’t enough washing-up to justify the expense... ‘It’s a different world,’ said his nan. She was fussing about with the teapot and cups. His nan was a bit of a tea snob and liked the whole ritual, warming the pot, doing it with leaves and not tea bags, proper cups.
But Smitty doesn't drink tea except at his nan's; he's a modern young man. Holding a styrofoam cup covered with a plastic lid and a straw sticking out of it is just as common here in Crete as it is in London - these days, everyone seems to be doing it (except for me):
... he did prefer his cappuccino piping hot... He wasn’t impressed by the performance of his new assistant, who had gone out twenty minutes ago, and who only needed about a quarter of that amount of time to get out and back, and who would therefore be returning with a cup of frothy coffee which was odds-on to be cold.
The stereotype of the white British - colour is an important distinction, as Zbigniew previously noted - is that they love cooking shows, love doing up their kitchens and buy ready food. Roger the City banker (he eats microwaved porridge for breakfast) and Arabella his spendthrift wife seem to fit this description:
He didn’t cook, except show-off barbecues on the occasional summer weekend at his silly boy-toy gas grill, and he didn’t wash clothes or iron them or sweep the floor or, hardly at all, play with the children. Arabella did not do those things either, not much, but that did not mean she went through life acting as if they did not exist, and it was this obliviousness which drove her so nuts. 
But when his wife sneaks away with a girlfriend leaving his to look after the children, I am amazed that Roger seemed to be somewhat of an egg-cooking expert:
Lunch was interesting. It was demanding to prepare – Conrad couldn’t remember which kind of eggs he liked, so Roger had to fry an egg and throw it away and boil an egg and throw it away and poach an egg and throw it away, before it was found by trial and error that scrambled eggs were the ones Conrad would eat. The confusion came about because he had said he liked the one which was eggy. Even allowing for that, Conrad was much less tricky than Joshua. He angrily refused everything Roger suggested before eventually deigning to eat a single narrow slice of crustless white bread with a thin smear of smooth peanut butter, and that was at the fourth attempt: the first slice was too thick, the second was defiled by the use of crunchy peanut butter, and the third by the use of too much peanut butter. Scraping the spread off and re-serving the slice with a thinner smear was by no means acceptable... For dinner they had the identical menu. This was two-thirds laziness, or exhaustion, on Roger’s part, and one-third practicality, since there wasn’t much else to cook... So for Christmas dinner he ate the boys’ leftover eggs and peanut butter, followed by a cheese sandwich, followed by two packets of crisps, and washed down with a bottle of Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 1990, which was supposed to be the pre-Christmas-lunch aperitif. 

And for an outing, Roger took the children to Starbucks. The take-out coffee cup is a very important status symbol in the developed world - this expensive habit starts from a young age:
They went to Starbucks to get a triple-shot espresso (Roger), a cream-based java chip Frappuccino (Conrad) and a steamed-milk babycino (Joshua). 
I had to look these drinks up - yes, they all exist. The babycino is a very expensive way to prepare your young child's milk. But there are times when you do need to get out of the house, and Roger's time had come then when he was feeling the effects of cabin fever being stuck at home over Christmas with his young sons. And there are some people (like Mill the young detective assigned to the case of the Pepys St blogger) who had lunch on the go, and needed to spend time and money eating at cafes while on the job:
Mill went into a sandwich bar on the high street, realised that it was more expensive and pretentious than he was in the mood for, but couldn’t be bothered to abandon his place in the queue and go and find another one. He ended up with gouda and prosciutto and rocket on ciabatta, and a two-quid bottle of sparkling mineral water, which would make him burp during his afternoon’s legwork, but the bubbles at least gave the illusion that you were drinking something more interesting. Sitting at a window seat with his five-quid sandwich, leaning carefully forward as he ate so as not to get food on his suit, Mill got out his notebook and checked the names and addresses... Actually it was a good sandwich. Mill didn’t mind paying for things as long as he felt he was getting what he paid for
Mill was probably a sensible kind of bloke, and would appreciate a home-cooked meal rather than eat out all the time. His wife probably did cook every now and then, as did Smitty's mother:
She could see her cookbooks on the shelf, Nigella and Nigel and Delia and Jamie, the unopened books standing there as if reproachfully, their arms folded. At Sainsbury’s in Maldon she would stand in front of the frozen food cabinet, unable to discriminate between the Bird’s Eye fish fingers, twenty-four for £4.98, and the Sainsbury’s own-brand fish fingers, same-size box, in all probability made by the same people, for £4.49. But what if they weren’t the same? But what if they were?... She made Jamie’s guinea fowl with fresh oranges. It was revolting – the recipe didn’t work, it was one of Jamie’s duff ones – in fact it was an obviously stupid idea, chicken with oranges? – but she felt so much better because she had found the energy to make it.
Lanchaster's description of what Roger's and Arabella's children ate (according to Matya the Hungarian nanny's observations) would make one think that middle class British children have developed a gourmet taste for food:
As for food, that took a while for Matya to work out, and it was by no means a stable arrangement – he seemed to like baked potatoes, rice and chips, but not steamed potatoes; he sometimes did and sometimes did not like mash, he loved broccoli but hated cabbage, he liked cheese on some days but not on others, but always liked parmesan so long as it was grated, he liked meat but not burnt bits, dark bits, bits which had the appearance of potentially containing gristle even if they contained no gristle, bits which looked bloody or underdone; he disliked green flecks such as herbs, under all circumstances; he disliked the sight of dark spots which might be pepper; he disliked fizzy drinks but liked sweet ones; he liked fish fingers; he would not eat any kind of sausage except a hot dog; he liked pasta and pesto but not pasta with any other kind of sauce; it was impossible for anyone including Joshua to tell in advance of the food being put before him whether this would be one of the days on which he loved or hated bacon. A useful rule of thumb was that Joshua liked anything to which he could add tomato ketchup or soy sauce.

Personally speaking, this sums up a lack of culinary culture - anything goes, for any random reason. It seems a shame that Roger didn't take them to a greasy spoon instead of Starbucks, where they would have got a chance to enjoy something of their own. Tradition, it seems, is left to the tourists rather than the locals:
To celebrate last night’s successful dumping – though now that it had happened Zbigniew in his mind was more gentle and named it ‘the break-up’ – he took himself to the café round the corner for lunch. It was what the British called a ‘greasy spoon’ but in fact the food was not greasy at all, since it served salads and pastas as well as the large plates of fried food that British labourers ate. Zbigniew had acquired this taste and ordered a full English number 2, consisting of bacon, a herbed sausage which was not as good as Polish sausage but was still not bad, blood sausage, chips, fried bread, fried egg, mushrooms, tomatoes, and baked beans, a British speciality which Zbigniew had initially disliked but through repetition – they were often included as a standard ingredient – had come to like. As with many foods the British liked their secret was that they were much sweeter than they pretended to be. There was also a large mug of not very good coffee. This meal cost £6 but on a special occasion was worth it
*** *** ***

Lanchester's London stories, as many of his other works also deal with the UK capital, are full of insights into the thinking patterns of the different people that make up the city:
London was so rich, and also so green, and somehow so detailed: full of stuff that had been made, and bought, and placed, and groomed, and shaped, and washed clean, and put on display as if the whole city was for sale. It seemed too as if many of the people were on display, behaving as if they were expecting to be looked at, as if they were on show: so many of them seemed to be wearing costumes, not just policemen and firemen and waiters and shop assistants, but people in their going-to-work costumes, their I’m-a-mother-pushing-a-pram costumes, babies and children in outfits that were like costumes; workers digging holes in their costume-bright orange vests; joggers in jogging costume; even the drinkers in the streets and parks, even the beggars, seemed to be wearing costumes, uniforms. 
He tells us a lot of things we already 'know' about the different cultures that make up Britain, reinforcing the British stereotype. But despite its drab climate and high crime, Lodnon continues to be a magnet for people wishing to to get away from their own selves, in their attempt to create a new identity, of who they think they really want to be. If the socal make-up of London fascinates you, you will probably enjoy this book, and you won't mind when it drags on a little (it's a rather elongated story.) And if you buy it on Kindle, it's only 20p, which sums up the value of these ephemeral stories.

©All Rights Reserved/Organically cooked. No part of this blog may be reproduced and/or copied by any means without prior consent from Maria Verivaki.

Sunday, 17 March 2013

Malva sylvestris - Mallow (Μολόχα)

One of the most rampant weeds of our garden is the mallow plant, Malva sylvestris, μολόχα (mo-LO-ha) in Greek. It is a strange plant, growing on a sturdy stem and very tall when it is left untouched, so that it almost looks like a tree when growing out of harm's way. But most of the time, we see it in fields and gardens, growing as a tall large shrub. Its leaves resmble that of the grapevine's and when it blooms at the end of winter, it brings forth pretty pink-purple flowers. It grows literally everywhere on the island.


File:Mallow January 2008-1.jpgThe mallow plant is edible, and has various uses. The flower is often found in dried form, and used as a tea sweetened with honey, which soothes bad coughs. The leaves can be used for bronchial and unrinary disorders, and the roots are used as a poultice for skin inflammations and ulcers.

The flowers are still used in Greece for tea, while the leaves are used in cooking, to make dlomadakia, in the same way as with grapevine leaves. It also helps that the shape of the mallow leaf is similar to the grapevine leaf, so that they are treated in exactly the same way.


Mallow plants (large pile of leaves, below dock leaves) are washed and blanched before use, to make them more flexible for filling. 

I made some moloho-dolmades recently, before my husband cleared the garden of all the weeds, in preparation for summer planting. The taste of mallow cooked mallow leaves is very peppery.

This extremely frugal dish used a range of leaves found in our garden (mallow, spinach, dock and chard), which were filled (along with some shelled tomatoes frozen from last summer) with rice flavoured with onion, olive oil and garden herbs - fennel weed, parsley and mint.

Mallow leaf parcels give you a taste of what spring has in store - just as they become to fibrous for the grapevine leaves are just starting to sprout.



The Egyptians also use a kind of leaf they call 'molokhiya', which sounds similar to 'mallow'/'moloha'; both these species are from the same family (the Malvaceae, as is the okra plant), but they are quite different species. The Egyptian mallow is one of most commonly cultivated plants, whereas Greek mallow wild in grate abundance.

©All Rights Reserved/Organically cooked. No part of this blog may be reproduced and/or copied by any means without prior consent from Maria Verivaki.

Saturday, 16 March 2013

Greek spending habits (Αγοραστικές συνήθειες)

It was World Consumer Rights Day yesterday, with the local press publishing a report about how Greek people's shopping habits have changed with the economic crisis. The findings are based on a recent survey conducted by the Harokopeio University.


Here are some of the findings, in brief, translated from the report:
  • 82% seek specials
  • 80% compare prices
  • 77% prefer Greek products over imports
  • 74% use a shopping list
  • 71% buy only what they need
  • 70% buy the cheaper alternatives
  • 93% have limited their 'eating out'
  • 63% buy less meat
  • 60% buy less fish
  • 51% buy fewer sweets
  • 48% buy less alcohol
  • 70% eat more rice, beans and/or potatoes than they did before
  • 46% eat more vegetables than they did before, and
  • 50% eat more bread than they did before.
The key words describing Greek shopping habits are 'comparison', 'Greek products' and 'specials', which is basically an ethnocentric form of 'smart shopping'. Specials are found through advertising leaflets and the internet, while both shopping trips and the internet are used to make price comparisons. In 2012 alone, over 2 million Greeks made online transactions worth over 2.5 billion. This figure is quite significant when compared with the number of Greeks who use the internet, which is 6 million; in other words, of those who use the internet, 1 in 3 Greeks are now shopping online. 

The bread data given above are also a cause for confusion: the report mentions that Greeks eat less bread now than they did before. This may be due to having fewer members in each household/family, and dietary changes (mainly for health reasons). 9 out of 10 bakers report lower takings, which could be due to the higher prices of flour and petrol. Nevertheless, 39% of Greeks still buy bread on a daily basis, 25% buy bread every two days, while 28% buy it once a week. 86% still buy it from the local bakery rather than a supermarket; the main reason being stated for this is the better perceived quality, taste, freshness and aroma.

Attiki (also known as Attica), the administrative region of city of Athens, is one of the smallest administrative regions in Greece, but it has the highest population than any other. A very interesting finding of the survey concerned bread consumption in Attiki:
"The greatest daily consumption in the Attiki basin take place in West and East Attiki, in the southeast suburbs, Pireas (the main ferry port) and the western suburbs, while average daily consumption is noticed in the Municipality of Athens and the northern suburbs."
Such data give us a hint about the history of bread consumption. Bread is often associated with poverty, tradition and low education. The Western regions of Athens have always been the poorest, the northern suburbs are associated with the wealthier class, the eastern suburbs sprung from the need for more housing during the refugee crisis in 1922 (the population exchange between Greece and Turkey) and the southeast regions are less urban than they are rural.

In short, Greeks have made radical changes in their spending habits, with logic prevailing within a framework of a hierarchy of needs.

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Friday, 15 March 2013

Πέσε για να πέσω (Give me to give you)

Ryanair starts flying in and out of Hania to the UK form next week. London, London, here I come. 

Ryanair, the cheap flights service from Ireland, who once suggested charging people a pound to use the toilets on their flights, has made the town of Hania (they spell it Chania, to reflect the way the name is usually spelt on maps) a base for its services. This basically means that many people will be flying in and out of Hania from now on - already, 500,000 seats to enter Crete alone have been booked as far ahead as summer. Another added bonus for the locals is, of course, jobs and other business opportunities related to an increase in tourism and general people traffic. And for ordinary folks like myself, it means cheap direct flights to and from other European destinations.

Although cheap flights have been available from Hania before Ryanair's appearance, they were never on an all-year-round basis, working only during the summer period, which lasts basically from the end of March to the end of October, give or take a week. They weren't seriously cheap either, as their price was determined by demand from the customers they mainly served, rather than the locals whose town they were flying in and out of. And in the wintertime, there was basically nothing available to us - it was either a stopover in Athens in order to continue our journey, or the overnight ferry boat. No wonder life becomes slow-paced in small places - we spend much of our time waiting for somethng to get going.

Services like Ryanair will help in this direction, speeding up the pace of life. They will also provide incentives for people to start moving and continue to do so. Such services will also provide much needed promotion for the town and the greater region, which will be advantageous to the local authorities. That's the catch - to get something, you have got to give something. All the businesses of Hania are paying some kind of collective promotion fee to Ryanair for this special service to our town, which will boost tourism and help people become more acquainted with the region. The contribution of my husband - as an owner-operator cabbie - for example is €10.

Imagine getting people flying into Hania for a weekend mini-break. Welcome to the new order of how things are done in the modern moving world.

The football club owner is asking for a reduction in the rental fees of the grounds, but he is reminded of the terms of the contract he signed. He says he's paid off many contracts (pre-nuptial, life insurance, social-political), and he knows the rules of the game: "Give to me, to give to you." 

This venture reminds us that you don't get something for nothing, just like Agapoula says in the video - a contract works both ways: Πέσε για να πέσω. 

If you need an explanation concerning Agapoula's principles, you can find out more about him here and here

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Thursday, 14 March 2013

Spring blossom

This post is dedicated to all the Northern Europeans who were recently (or still are) snowed under.


















You probably need to take a holiday in Crete.

Thanks to Eirini for her photos - she is a better photographer than I am.

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Wednesday, 13 March 2013

Soup kitchen (Συσσίτιο)

Soup kitchens: that's a scary phrase - it means poverty, misery, κακομοιριά. Unless we need them, we don't know anything about them. If you need to use the services of a soup kitchen, you have reached the lowest level - you are unable to feed yourself, whether it is because you cannot afford to, or because you are unable to.

Cook up an oily vegetable-based sauce with some cheap meat cuts (in this case, frankfurter chunks were added), pour some water over it and add the pasta - this is quick and easy to cook, and it provides a lot of servings with little effort.

So what do the poor and disabled eat when someone else provides them with their meal? I can only imagine it is something cheap and easy to cook, which can be made in large batches, to provide many portions. Those who cook the meal must procure the ingredients in the cheapest way they can. They are not running a for-profit service - they are serving hungry malnourished people. In Greece, cooking for others is guaranteed to involve large pots of something cooking fresh over a fire - the idea of packaged food does not hold, even among the poor and those who provide food for them. Packaged food is regarded as crap - not only that, but it;s expensive in a country rich in agricultural products. When you know someone is unable to feed themselves, you try to give them the best food you can afford. A hot meal is symbolic of love and sympathy; it will warm up the soul of the impoverished even before they begin to eat.

The people in need come to the parish church, slide open the aluminium window and leave their empty clean container on the mantelpiece. Not all soup kitchens have communal dining areas, but there is another reason why these people may not wish to dine with others - disability may impede them from doing so, while poverty is sometimes best suffered in silence.

Few people would be able to guess who is receiving soup kitchen meals. Most of the people who receive soup kitchen meals do not look as though they are living in discomfort. The area of St George's church in Katsifariana is not built up, there are many green fields full of orchards surrounding the church, and there are no homeless people to be seen inthe area. The people who come to the church with their empty plastic containers do not all come from the area: some walk from Souda; others use their motorbike to drive in from Hania; some come in battered cars. Distribution is the biggest problem in feeding the poor, who are all from different walks in life, but have one thing in common: an empty stomach. Your home keeps you sheltered, but it does not feed you. You can own your own home forever (who cares if the electricity is cut off?), but to keep yourself nourished, you need 2000 calories a day, spread over at least three meals, and there is never a point in your life when you will be able to say that you have enough food to keep you alive forever.

When the meal is cooked, the bowls are taken to the counter and filled. The bowls contain multiple servings. Bread is also provided, as is fruit as well as salad.

The wife of the priest cooks the meals herself, with the help of some girls and women who peel potatoes, chop vegetables and clean the kitchen. These women are not in employment themselves, but may be in a better economic position to keep themselves and their families nourished. Different meals are cooked every day. The meals are offered to families where both members have lost their jobs, and hence have no income apart from what may be needed to pay the basic utility bills: electricity, water, telephone, rent, heating fuel - it probably won't be enough even for all of that. Some meals are also offered to immigrants who will not be entitled to any benefits from the Greek state. Their existence hangs on a thread.

The people who use these services will not look much different from me. They will live in a similar house to my own. Every morning, they will get up and splash some water on their face, and comb their hair, and make a cup of tea or coffee like I do. But unlike me, they will not leave the house to go to work. I imagine that if they leave the house at all, it will be in search of work, or a hardship grant, or some food.

Before the economic crisis, this parish church used to cook up to 40 meal portions. This gradually doubled to 80 portions; it is now serving 135 portions daily - that's a 240% increase since 2009.

Many people who have recently lost their source of income use the services of this soup kitchen. But the fact is that this soup kitchen had been started well before the crisis. The economic crisis may sound like a new concept, but in reality, many of our fellow citizens have been living through some kind of crisis well before the economic crisis broke out. Churches have always been there to help them through difficult times. 


This is the kind of cooking I enjoy doing myself. If I were unemployed, I'd want to work in a soup kitchen because I know my food would always be appreciated. Plating fancy salads and hearing the first-world complaints of diners with too much spare cash and not enough sense and knowledge to cook a meal for themselves would probably not give me job satisfaction. I can imagine tipping their plates over their heads. I like cooking real food for real people.

I have never been to a soup kitchen. It is not my job to go to one, except as an onlooker, a kind of nosy-parker, and this is neither possible, nor welcome. Thanks again to Eirini who goes along to help at this one when she has time; her photos show how the system works in a non-descript area on the outskirts of the town of Chania, concealing the problems of the area in such a way that no one will ever suspect what may be hiding behind the picturesque facade of our Mediterranean coastal resort town. 

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Tuesday, 12 March 2013

Bored (Βαρεμάρα)

Here's how husband passed his day today. 

What time was it when I left the house this morning, Maria? Did you hear me? It was about 6.30, wasn't it? Kosta had phoned me to ask if he could keep the car until he got a ride. "Where are you?" I asked him. "Africana," he said, "and I'm alone." But Africana never gets much business these days, it's so close to Hania people walk, so I told him to bring the cab to me, because if I'd left him there, he might have brought it even later than the time you take the kids to school, so I told him to bring it home and I could begin my shift. As it was, I'd lost my regular customer from my usual first stop, because another cab had already rolled into the Kalithea rank, and I knew he'd get the fare, and all I'd end up wth is a ντουλάπα.

Now that the tablets have been taken away from us* and we had to go back to the old system of picking up fares, I had to hit the road and go to the next taxi rank, which happened to be Africana. I was surprised no one was there before me. I was all alone. Then No. 72 came along, glanced at me, and drove off. Then No. 133 appeared and he left as soon as he took one look at me. The same with No. 55. I was beginning to think  they were all avoiding me because of some decision that I had taken against them** or something, so I called No. 55 and asked him where he was. He said he was at the Koumbe rank. I also asked him if he'd seen 72 and 133; he told me they were there with him. I asked him if I should come along too, and he told me I was fine where I was - he was 7th in line.

So I here I was, all on my lonesome, watching the world waking up and passing me by, as I remained still.  I heard 72 get called, then 133 got a fare, and I began getting a little edgy as I still had nothing. No. 92 came along and parked behind me. We both got out of our cabs for a bit of fresh air and a little chat. The first fare - a very young-looking chap - came along at 8.30. Just before I got into the cab, I asked him where he was going.

"Plakias," he said, matter-of-factly. I couldn't believe my ears. If you go to Plakias, you don't need to work for the rest of the day. Well, you could work if you wanted to, but you'd have made as much money as you normally would over two days of working all day in Hania. 92 stared at me with a jaw dropped as low as his πι-πί.

"Plakias is far away," I warned him, "it's going to cost you a lot of money." It's only fair to warn him. You don't know the people who come into your cab. You may see them very day, like my regular fare at Kalithea, or you may see them once in your life, like this guy, but you never know if they have the money to pay you. I once took someone to Paleohora, and when he got out, he said "Just a minute," and he went into his house and bought back a canary in a cage and told me to take it. Luckily, I didn't take off immediately, because his mother came out of the house running to catch up with me, and she was holding her purse. She kept apologising for her son's behaviour, and she paid me in full. Then another time, I picked someone up from Souda and he told me to take him to a village in Iraklio near Moires. After I got to Rethimno, he struck up a conversation (I always let the customer start the conversation - some of them may not want to talk much in the cab). He told me how hard his life was, being stuck all day in the psychiatric unit in Souda. The cheeky bugger had come onto the main road to avoid being picked up from the τρελοκομείο where he lived. All I could think of was 'Fuck'. He probably didn't have any money on him but I couldn't very well turn back to Hania. I just carried on driving all the way to Moires. When we finally got to his house, I found his father out in the yard. The guy got out of the taxi without even turning to look at me. His father came up to me and said, "Why do you keep bringing him here?" I told him I was only doing my job, I had no idea who he was, I just picked up a fare and took him where he told me. His father told me to wait a minute. He came out of the house with his wallet and paid me in full. I felt sorry for these parents. They looked old, but their kids were young. Their children had aged them too early. I remembered these stories as I watched the young man get into the back seat of the cab.

"I've got €220 in my pocket," he said. I nodded a see-you-later to No. 92 and started up the car. Do you know how many years it's been since I've been to Plakias? I didn't remember how bad the road was. One minute you're climbing a hill, the next you're rolling down it, then you drive through a gorge, a bit more up and down before you are finally back on flat road. We got to Plakias forty minutes later, and I asked him where excatly he wanted to go. He told me to drive down to the beach, so I did. I expected him to tell me which spot on the beach he wanted to get out at, but he said nothing. I kept driving slowly along the coast, but he still said nothing. I thought maybe he was μαστουρομένος, but he didn't smell of pot or anything, and his eyes weren't jaded either. To try to work out what the hell he was up to, I asked him if he wanted to stop off and get a coffee at the kafeneio - nothing else was open. "No," he said, "it's too cold." I was fed up, and feeling a little jittery after the drive, but I couldn't do much about my situation. I asked him where he wanted me to take him.

"Let's go back to Hania," he said. I wasn't sure if he was having me on. The meter would continue ticking; he'd have to pay for the return fare too.

"You've come all the way down here, and you haven't even stepped out of the cab," I said to him.

"That's none of your business. I'm the paying customer." We arrived back in Africana at about 10.30. The round trip had cost him €140.

The man looked very young, but he was actually in his mid-30s, as I found out when I got back to Hania. No. 92 had made it known among the 200 or so cabs in Hania through the wireless that I had got lucky. Some other cabbies knew the young man I had picked up. Apparently he is from a comfortable but not very rich family. He has never worked in his life, which explains why he looks much younger than he is. He has no dreams, no aspirations, no plans to leave. In the summer, he gets up late and sits at MyCafe all afternoon drinking frappe. He is bored shitless, and he can't do anything to change his life.

I joined the Africana rank, behind two other cabs. I got out to stretch my legs and the other cabbies just stared at me like I was crazy. "What are you doing back here?" they asked me. You should go home now.| It was too early to go home. I made another €20 picking up three more fares, until it was time to pick up the kids from school. As I watched my son dragging his bag on the ground because he couldn't be bothered lifting it up onto his shoulder, my mind went back to that young man.

*For the last 18 months, the cabs of Hania were working via an online GPS-oriented system - the funding program fell through, and it's now back to old manual routine of picking up fares, at the taxi ranks and through the wireless system.

*My husband is on the Monitoring Board of the Hania cab association, which controls system cheats. 

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Pension (Σύνταξη)

When governments face a financial crisis, they need to find ways to cut back on spending, and one of the first ways to do this is to cut back on money being paid out in pensions and benefits, especially the ones being paid fradulently. For example, a while ago, it was discovered that blindness seemed to be contagious on one small Greek island; it turned out that the local opthalmologist(s) were signing out free blindness benefits, granting favours to the residents, no doubt for a cut in the takings.

It was recently revealed that at least 18,228 pensions were being paid out in Greece fradulently. The Greek word for 'pension' is σύνταξη, which can actually mean 'pension' in the classic old-age payment, or 'benefit', making it difficult to work out what kind of pensions are being paid without further analysis. But the state had conducted another clear-up of pension/benefit claims only just recently, which sorted out (or so it seems) the fraudulent beneficiaries (as in the above-mentioned cases of μεταδοτική στραβομάρα). So I'm assuming that the 18,228 pensions recently cited as being paid out illegally must be of the old-age retirement type (let's put aside the fact that many Greek state employees take early retirement, anytime from their mid-40s to their early 50s; they don't wait till they're in their 60s, as one would be assuming when they hear the words 'old' and 'retirement'). This decrease in payouts will surely help the state coffers. But that figure accounts for just a mere 0.4% of the total pensions/subsidies being paid out - in other words, that's hardly anything.

The figures are even more worrying when the total figure for pensions being paid out is taken into account: 4.41 million pensioners were registered in Greece. Subtracting the number of pensions whose payments have stopped, that makes approximately 4.39 million continuing to be paid. The population of Greece according to the 2011 census is slighly less than 11 million (it probably does not include illegal immigrant, who aren't recorded in pension/benefit schemes in the first place), which means that nearly 40% of the population is receiving a pension. Not forgetting that this figure does not take into account people who receive more than one pension (they may have worked in different sectors, which makes them entitiled to state handouts from various sources, which has laways made tracking who is getting what even murkier), it creates a dismal picture: more than one Grek citizen (and they don't necessarily live in Greece, as reitred Greeks can take their pension to another country) is receiving a benefit which has to be paid for by the taxes of at least two working people in the Greek state.

The greatest fraudsters were, unsurprisingly, those receiving public service pension funds, as well as IKA, the Greek equivalent of the United Kingdom's NHS, because they are the largest social insurance institutions in Greece. But there were also two more groups of fraudsters that stuck out like sore thumbs - the farmers' pension fund, OGA, and the doctors', ETEAM. Sadly, it's the usual suspects that are milking the system.

On a happier note, the Greek economy showed a surplus for the first two months of this year, which sounds like good news. Our finance minister is very pleased about the way things are going at the moment. But this surplus was created simply by making cutbacks, not by profiting from any investment. In other words, Greek state spending went on a diet and lost some weight. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

Sharing your junk food over some television is the best way to enjoy a comedy spot in the evening. In my search for something different for my Greek eaters to experiment with, during today's supermarket trip, I found a combination of Europe's extremities: some (expensive) Burts' crisps (€2.96 a packet) some (cheap) made-in-Greece green cola (€0.60 per can - there was also a special going: buy 5, get 1 free). When choosing a junk food treat, we allow a budget cost of up to €2 per person because that's how much a filling souvlaki costs. I can still supplement this meal with another €4. In the same way, we've tried a whole host of 'exotic' treats, including Bundaberg ginger beer, Ocean spray craisins and cranberry juice, pecan nuts, among other treats now being made available temproarily at the local supermarkets: 'all in moderation' follows.  

On a more global scale, cutbacks are being planned in all European economies, and pensions/benefits are the main target. One need look no further than Europe's extremities to see how bad things are in the pensions/benefits sector: Greece and the UK, with their completely different politicial systems, different transparency levels and different social structure, are both in the same boat, wading through choppy waters. They make an interesting comparison: for completely different reasons, they are now faced with the same dilemma. They greatest losers will not be the tiny number of fraudsters: it will be the suckers who have to keep paying into the system to ensure that there will be enough for them when they leave the workforce. For there to be anything left, we will have to face cutbacks in both the health and education systems, the last two bastions of state intervention. When these are lost, it's each for his own.

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Love cookies (Κουλουράκια της αγάπης)

On the eve of the feast day of the Forty Saints, Άγιοι Σαράντα (Ayii Saranta) as they are known in Greek, the parish of the Forty Saints church in Nerokourou held a celebratory mass. The 9th of March is dedicated to the forty martyrs of Sebasteia who died in battle for their love of Christ.


At the end of the service, apart from the regular sweet offerings, a basket of love cookies was being handed out to the congregation. The cookies were made the children attending Sunday School in the area.

"Please take one!" the little girl said. "It has the recipe my mother wrote!" 
The icons came with a cookie, the recipe and a matchstick with cotton dipped in oil from a candle.


Not being a church goer, I missed out on gettingmy share, but my friend managed to get one, which came along with the recipe. Love cookies are made with ingredients not commonly found in the supermarket.



You need:
3 water glasses of peaceful conscience (when the sea is calm, we say it looks like olive oil)
2 water glasses of honest heart (like the purity of sweet sugar)
1 wine glass of laughter (which you can find in the form of tsikoudia, the Cretan firewater)
1 wine glass of good will (which you have in the juice of freshly squeezed orange)
1 water glass of love (in the smell of toasted sesame seed)
1 sachet of bubbly joy (a sachet of baking powder will do)
1 teaspoon of insistence (baking soda will be fine)
1 teaspoon of inspiration (ammonia can be used, although I usually don't add this, as I find my inspiration in other ways)
communication and a happy countenance as you embark on the task (try some ground cinnamon and cloves)
as much work as is needed (keep adding flour till you can knead the dough easily)



To make the love cookies:
Pour the peaceful conscience of your inner world into a bowl, together with your honest heart. Work very hard at it constantly and add the love, some communication and your happy countenance. Our mixture takes on a ruddy cheek colour. To this we add the joy and laughter. We must be careful here, because sulkiness might spoil our mixture! Then we add the hard work. We mould our cookies onto the tray of our soul, we warm up the oven with our good will, and bake the cookies at 170 degrees Celsius of patience for 30 minutes. 


Whoever eats these cookies ascertains that the main charcateristic of their taste is the tranquility of the soul! 

The preparation time is as long as life itself. And there is no caloric value.  

Thanks to Eirini for the photos.

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