Tuesday, 16 August 2011

I like shwimpth! (Μου αλέθουν οι γαλίδεθ!)

ramni haniaI recently went to the 40-day memorial service of the mother of a friend. It was held in a mountain village of Hania close to Lefka Ori (Λευκά Όρη - the White Mountains) where she was born and lived all her life, until, in later years, she was looked after by her children in the town. The 40-day memorial service for a dearly departed is considered the most important, especially if you didn't attend their funeral which would have been announced without much warning. After the church service, it is customary to sit at a nearby cafe for coffee and finger food, in meal eaten as a celebration of an entire life. If you are a very close relative/friend of the deceased, you will also be expected to stay for a meal, given at the deceased's family home. The memorial service took place during the fasting period leading up to the Dormition of the Virgin Mary (August 15th), which meant that all the meals served had to be lenten, ie meat, eggs, cheese or fish (except shellfish) were forbidden.

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Above: The informal meal at the cafe. Below: The meal for the close friends and relatives.
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This is where I met Manouso, a lively 4-year-old, who sat next to me during the meal. Here are his thoughts on food.

What are you going to have, Manouso?
Θέλω θαλάτα - αλά μόνο αγγουλάκι, δε θέλω ντομάτα - κι' ένα κολοκυθάκι -- α, βάλε μου και ντολμαδάκια!
I want thalad - but only cucumber, I don't want tomato - and thome thoucchini, oh and give me thome dolmadakia.

How about some fries, would you like some of those?
Πατάτεθ! Θέλω και πατάτεθ!
Potatoeth! I want thome potatoeth too.

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Would you like to try some shrimp too? 
Γαλίδεθ! Μου αλέθουν οι γαλίδεθ!
Thwimpth! Thwimpth are weely good!

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And what are you going to drink? Would you like some wine?
Θέλω νελό. Δε πίνω κλαθί. Θα πιω κλαθί όταν μεγαλώθω.
I want some water. I don't dwink wine. I'm going to dwink wine when I gwow up.

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(Manouso suddenly noticed that some of the bottles were open and didn't have a cap on the top, so he called out to his uncle Spiro.) 
Ε! Θπίλο! Κλείθε το κλαθί! Θπίλο, Κλείθε το κλαθί, για να μη μπούνε μύγες θτο μπουκάλι!
Hey! Thpilo! Clothe the wine! Thpilo, clothe the wine, coth the flies will get inthide the bottle!

Manouso, you aren't eating your food.
Τώγω το φαγητό μου! Εγώ τώγω θιγά-θιγά!
Yeth, I am! I eat thlowly!

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Do you like chips or shrimps more?
Mου αλέθουν οι πατάτεθ αλλά οι γαλίδεθ μου αλέθουν πιο πολύ!
I like potatoeth, but I like shwimpth even more!

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(Manouso again notices that the bottles on the table aren't capped.) 
Ε, Θπίλο! Κλείθε το κλαθί, Θπίλο! Κλείθε το κλαθί, για να μη μπούνε μύγες θτο μπουκάλι! 
Hey, Thpilo! Clothe the wine, Thpilo! Clothe the wine, tho the flies don't get inthide the bottle!
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You've almost finished your plate, Manouso! Bravo!
Όταν τώμε, δε μιλάμε, και το πιάτο μαθ κοιτάμε!*
When we're eating, we don't spake, and our eyes stay on our plate!

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Would you like a snail, Manouso? (The snails took longer to cook than the rest of the meal, and came out quite a while after the other dishes.)
Δε θέλω τιποτ' άλλο. Τέλειωθα το πιάτο μου!
I don't want anything elthe. I've finithed my plate!

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When Manousos had finished eating his meal, he went off to play with the other children present at the gathering, and didn't come back to the table until he saw the watermelon being served, which constituted 'detherrt'.
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 *** *** ***
Part of child-raising involves teaching your child to eat the meal it is offered, which in Crete is often prepared and served with loving attention. Teaching your child to eat a home-cooked meal will aid in teaching a child discipline in its later life.


There are nations who wait for the state to impose law and order, not only in society but also in people's daily life. Greeks would never bother waiting for the state to do this, as they are already used to the extremely slow pace with which the state moves and takes action. With a child, you cannot afford to wait until someone fixes up your problems. You have to take action yourself before it's too late; it needn't take a riot to get that wake-up call. No matter what the reasons are for the breakdown of discipline in your own child's life, you have to accept some of the blame.

*Greek proverb, often learnt at school.

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Friday, 12 August 2011

The identity factor behind a riot (Θέμα ταυτότητας)

Riots: we're used to them in Greece. They usually occur in one specific place, they affect only the immediate area, and people work their way around them. The only time they spread to other urban areas around the country (ie they weren't centralised in Athens) was when Alexis Grigoropoulos, the 15-year-old boy who was somewhere he probably shouldn't have been, was killed by a police officer on December 6, 2008. The scenario sounds similar to what happened in the United Kingdom recently. But it's not similar at all. Here's why:

UK: Skirmishes between citizens and the police usually involve black people - the problem starts off as a racial incident.
GR: Skirmishes between citizens and the police usually involve Greek people - the problem starts off as an anti-social incident.

254677_10150332519665067_139760680066_9922016_5647267_nUK: Damage mainly occurred on private property. Shops selling consumer goods in all price ranges were targeted: eg clothes, cellphones, chocolates, beer, etc. This shows how consumer-minded people have become in such countries. (On the one hand, I feel sorry for them because the consumeristic world they are forced to live in is trashy; on the other, it looks like something is missing from their life - they have no true concept of natural, unadulterated, pure, real, genuine.)
GR: Damage occurs on public (ie state) property, including banks (symbols of financial power) and multi-national companies (eg the iconic McDonalds on Syntagma Square was razed to the ground).

UK: People were quick to label the rioting looters as 'scum', before they call them 'disenfranchised youth'.
GR: People are quick to lay the blame on the government. It's rare for rioters (rather than looters) to be blamed for their actions. No one denounces the vandals' actions, laying all the fault and responsibility on the government instead.

UK: People are proud of their homes and their property - and their area, shown by the promptness of the clean-up measures instigated by citizens themselves, as well as the vigilante sessions they organised (more evidence of their highly consumeristic society - they're protecting their "things").
GR: People are proud of their homes and their property - but not their area. No citizen has ever started a clean-up operation; everything is left to the state (which explains why things are slow to happen, and why it costs so much of tax-payers' money). There is no community spirit to summon pride in the area.

UK: The rioters found an excuse to make their main purpose looting.
GR: The rioters found an excuse to destroy those they felt responsible for the misery cast on society as a whole.

262930_10150332013575067_139760680066_9916553_1220041_nTo sum up: "Your identity is defined by what you are seen to be consuming" (claim by a French reporter speaking about the UK riots - thanks to a reader). "In the context of looting, it's about taking what you can. As well as mobile phones and clothes, there were plenty stealing petty things like sweets and cans of beer."

In other words, "You are what you eat".

©All Rights Reserved/Organically cooked. No part of this blog may be reproduced and/or copied by any means without prior consent from Maria Verivaki.

Thursday, 4 August 2011

The 2011 Greek cabbies' strike (Απεργία ταξί)

UPDATE: The strike ended on Friday, 5th August, 3pm. 

 My husband is in the third week of strike action taken by his professional group, the Greek cabbies. During this period, he was on airport duty almost daily, directing tourists to the buses that would take them into the town, ensuring that the strike was not broken (cabbies were only allowed to accept work without money), and making sure that freelancing moonlighters were not hijacking the trade (a good number were caught making a quick buck). This strike action is unprecedented in that it is the longest lasting strike in the history of the Greek taxi drivers' profession. During this time, some tourists questioned him about the strike and what he thought of the chaos it caused. 

Isn't a bad time for you to be striking?
Yes, it is. As a cabbie working in a Greek summer resort town, I make money in the summer, so these three weeks, which have come at the busiest time in the year for me, have cost me a similar amount of money as I would have made in January and February put together. But this strike couldn't have been delayed. since the Minister of Infrastructure and Transport (MIT) decided to announce the changes now, in the middle of the season, so we've had to go on strike at this time.

What exactly are you striking for?
The present MIT (Yianis Ragousis) overturned a decision by the former MIT (Dimitris Repas), and the changes he has decided to bring about in the profession of the Greek cabbie would in effect spell the death knell for most cabbies. Repas deregulated the Greek taxi industry a year ago, but he placed a ceiling on the number of cabs each area will have. His idea was that the Greek taxi industry will follow other European states' laws on the number of taxi licences issued in an area, which is usually about 1 cab per 1000 inhabitants. After the cabinet was reshuffled, Ragousis took his place and overturned Repas' decision by allowing free reign on the number of licences issued in an area, with no cap, completely disregarding his predecessor and other European states' laws already in force. If the industry is saturated, then there won't be enough work for all of us working in it, let alone the loss in the value of the licence, which most people working in the industry have paid for dearly.

Why are cabbies against deregulation? Isn't it the way things are going in a country like Greece which has serious economic problems?
Just to put things straight, the cabbies aren't against deregulation. They simply want it to take place with laws that will protect both old-timers and newcomers to the profession. Such laws already exist in other European countries. All we want is to be like them, and none of them have completely deregulated taxi industries. When deregulation comes, it's still going to hit the existing cabbies. There'll be mini-buses, private care hire, mini-vans, taxi fleets, all-inclusive airport transfers, hotel chauffeurs, and a whole host of new services that haven't been exploited yet in Greece, like they are in other countries. But these services exist alongside private cabbies like myself, along with well-established rules to protect both customers and businesses.

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Mr Organically Cooked in his cab

But isn't this strike hurting the tourist industry at a critical time?
Yes it is. But when you have been given an ultimatum, what should you do? Should you just grin and bear it? By striking, you are showing your indignation. A well-organised strike has a better chance of making an impact. So far, no one in Greece has chosen to accept the fate handed out to them by the government. Everyone goes on strike. Strikes are a way of life in Greece. At any rate, tourists use taxis mainly for port transfers. They don't use taxis the way Greek people do, or should I say used to, when the Greek taxi was considered very cheap. They know taxis are expensive means of transport from their own experience in their own country.


What do you think of your colleagues' action blocking access to some ferry ports and airport terminals around the country?
Such actions are deemed harmful for the tourist industry, but again, I don't believe it. It simply gives Greece a bad name, which the country has already earned from our politicians' actions! Again, it's politicians' actions that have caused this strike! The actions of the taxi drivers at the ports were wrong for moral reasons, but people should be asking themselves where the police were to stop them from behaving like that. In any other country, this wouldn't have taken place; why was it allowed to take place in Greece?! The police only got involved when they realised we were serious; surely, they should enforce law and order at the first instance, and not take a wait-and-see stance.

But many of those tourists may not visit Greece again, after what they went through during the blockades!
Well, I don't doubt that they will be angry, but somehow I doubt that they didn't know what they'd be in for if they came to Greece. I don't use the internet much, but my wife who uses the internet all the time says that there is no one in the western world, where nearly all our tourists come from, who doesn't know about the problems that Greece is going through. The Greek crisis has practically become a serial with thousands of episodes, most of which contain untruthful claims made by people who don't speak our language, don't understand our culture and don't even live here! Everyone seems to have something to say about Greece these days, because she's on the news all the time, all over the world. People come to Greece for a holiday because they want to, not because they are afraid their holiday will be ruined. At any rate, they probably see Greece as a safe holiday destination, which is why we've had record numbers of visitors to Greece this year. We're being told that this is due to the Arab unrest, but I'm not convinced that people are coming here just because they can't go elsewhere. When I go on holiday, I make a conscious choice about the destination, and I know what I want to do when I get there. Each place is unique. I don't think western tourists make less intelligent decisions than I do.



But the blockades stopped tourists from doing what they wanted to do while they were in Greece, so it was like they wasted their money coming here!
The blockades were enacted to make a statement to the government. Our unions constantly asked the MIT to see us and discuss the situation so that we could resolve it, but he keeps telling us that he isn't backing down on his new interpretation of the law, and he could only talk with us after summer. Somehow, the cabbies had to make a statement, and like all Greek strikes, it involved some chaos, which is a Greek word. Chaos is as old as ancient Greece! And we have to accept that sometimes things go wrong on holiday. Just look at what snow does to the Eurostar trains, or what happens when volcanic ash disrupts flights for two weeks. Travellers who were caught up in the disruptions still managed to sue the airlines and train companies just because their holiday was stuffed up by an unpredictable act of nature! At least in Greece, strikes are announced, so if you still decide to go ahead with your trip, even though you've been informed about the strike action through website information, you are partly to blame for being a victim of your own fate.

While you're on strike, how are you coping financially?
That's a very tricky question. Like all freelancers, most cabbies will have savings. Cabbies are usually family-oriented men, so if their wives work, they'll be in a luckier position. The ones who I really feel for are those that entered the taxi trade only recently, because they are most likely to owe money on their cab. They've got serious bills to pay. I'm glad I live in the country because at least my food is free. Athenians don't have that luxury. Being out of pocket is part and parcel of striking.But if we don't strike, we risk losing our trade completely. Since the announcement of the deregulation, an application for a fleet of 1700 taxis has been lodged with the Attika (Athens) peripheral administration unit. Who can afford to buy 1700 licenses on the cheap? Only people like Vgenopoulos, the owner of Olympic Airlines, who will then add an airport transfer to each flight, using his fleet with us as low-paid chauffeurs. It's a clear case of the big fish eating the little fish, impoverishment through globalisation.

  Although I don't completely get it, I guess Sunday's (6-Aug-2011) Kathimerini magazine supplement cartoon is trying to show the strength the cabbies showed during the strike (akin to brute force).

How likely is it that your actions will have an effect on changing the government's stance on the deregulation of the Greek taxi industry?
We're hopeful that they are taking heed of our actions, because our strike so far is the longest on record in our sector, so we are showing endurance at a critical time when it's hurting our pockets, and we would really truly rather be out there working than losing money. The fact that Ragousis refuses to see us and the dissent concerning his actions within government circles makes us feel very hopeful that this issue will be resolved the way we believe it should be. Strikes always involve an element of risk. You may get nothing out of them, which is what happens most of the time these days. But if you have a real cause, and you show how strongly you believe in it, then you have to stick it out. That's what we're doing.

*** *** ***
As I write this, we are awaiting the result of tomorrow's talks, not with Ragousis, but with the heads of the peripheral administration units of Greece (a clear sign of the government losing face, by not sending its own representative), who have pledged not to issue any new cab licenses until the new laws are drawn up and the taxi unions are given a chance to debate them. There is a 99% chance that the strike will be resolved. This is a clear defeat for the government, who tried to enact the new taxi laws by presidential decree, which means that the law does not need to be debated (whereas drawing up a bill means debate before the law is passed, after which it cannot be changed). Since the Greek economic crisis broke out, the cabbies' strike is the only one among the low-middle class professional establishment in Greece to claim a partial victory during the extreme austerity conditions exercised by the government, possibly due to the unfairness that it uncovered, coupled with the fact that it combined endurance with a nationwide compulsory strike (unlike the public sector, where striking takes place 1-2 days and is optional for the union members).  

UPDATE: The strike ended on Friday, 5th August, 3pm.

©All Rights Reserved/Organically cooked. No part of this blog may be reproduced and/or copied by any means without prior consent from Maria Verivaki.

Monday, 1 August 2011

Fried green tomatoes (Τηγανιτές πράσινες ντομάτες)

It's often said that the best meals with timeless value are those that originated among the poorest people, who had limited ways available to them to store food, so they would make very simple dishes using very fresh ingredients. No wonder such frugal dishes tasted so good. In our times, frugal cooking, and by extension frugal living, is often associated with a simple lifestyle, led by people who wish to escape the shackles of a consumeristic society, where every move one makes is governed by a pecuniary transaction. The crisis is nothing new to such people: they have lived in crisis-mode for most of their lives, without anyone really noticing. Frugal living often entails blending in with the background, keeping away from the limelight, but it doesn't entail evading taxes.

green tom batter
"Who can blame slaves for being cunning? They are constantly compelled to resort to it. It is the only weapon of the weak and oppressed against the strength of their tyrants." Incidents in the Life of a Slave Girl Written by Herself by Harriet Ann Jacobs, available for free download.

Frugal living is about to become close to impossible to accomplish now in Greeece. It was once so easy to live in the countryside, grow your own food, and work for a low income to make just enough money as needed to pay for services and food that you couldn't grow yourself, pay your taxes, and change your car once every fifteen years. Now that the state finds itself amidst a debt crisis that it cannot escape from, the only way it's found to pay its debts is by taking out more debts, which has shown not to work. Since it can't manage to nab tax-evaders and make debtors pay off their debts (a simple mind wonders why property can't be seized and bank accounts can't be blocked until arrangements have been made with the tax department), it's been decided that everybody, regardless of socio-economic status, income-earning ability or means, will pay a "Solidarity Levy" to alleviate this crisis (my own will amount to approximately 150 euro), amidst a regular monthly bill from the tax department for all sorts of other extra state levies, in an attempt to cover the debt. We've suddenly become slaves to the state.

 frying tom fried green tom
"I like a straightforward course, and am always reluctant to resort to subterfuges. So far as my ways have been crooked, I charge them all upon slavery. It was that system of violence and wrong which now left me no alternative but to enact a falsehood... It is a sad feeling to be afraid of one's own native country." Incidents in the Life of a Slave Girl Written by Herself by Harriet Ann Jacobs, available for free download.

It's our fault, we are constantly reminded, by the great financial minds of the European Union:
"Juncker said the Greek crisis had been largely caused by itself. "Between 1999 and 2010 wages rose 106.6% even though the economy did not grow at the same pace. The wage policies were completely out of control and not based on (gains in) productivity*," he said."
What Juncker or the reporter failed to mention was that the salaries which doubled in the last decade were state salaries and not private-sector salaries. Take my example: In 1995, I was receiving a net salary of 245,000 drachmas (equivalent to approximately 720 euro) as an English teacher at a private language institute for children in Athens. (It pays to note that this salary was considered very high at the time (a good salary for that time period was 150,000.) Seventeen years later, I receive 1134 euro (a 32-euro decrease since the new taxation laws came into effect last month) at a European-governed agronomic institute, teaching and correcting the writing of post-graduate students. Thus, true to form, Juncker’s statements are a collective lie. Our former hidden economies, which lay in the foundations of frugal living (spend less-save more, grow your own, recycle, don't throw away), are now being regarded as a form of freeriding which necessaitates that a tax be imposed, in order to stop us from cheating the state. As an example, rural water supply charges were to increase by 13% (through the addition of VAT tax), which would immediately have hit farmers. The amendment was, thankfully, withdrawn, when it was vetoed by a member of Parliament from Crete, who claimed that the government was trying to pass this law by cover of darkness (during a late-night Parliamentary session when it was presumed no one would take much notice).

tomato meal
"When a man has his wages stolen from him, year after year, and the laws sanction and enforce the theft, how can he be expected to have more regard to honesty than has the man who robs him?" Incidents in the Life of a Slave Girl Written by Herself by Harriet Ann Jacobs, available for free download.

Slavery never did anybody any good. In fact, it turned honest people into dishonest ones. It taught them to steal in order to survive, to lie in order to escape death, to hate because they could not find any reason to love their tyrants. Greeks are often accused of cheating the system - the stereotype will probably remain with them forever.

*As I read this, I recalled this past academic year's events: the institute's students' pass rate in the external ITP examination for proof of English competence was 75% this year, double what it was in all previous years. I single-handedly ran the course (with fewer teaching hours, more online work and some 'put-the-fear-of-God' tactics), after the departure of my two former colleagues who were involved in the same job with the same students - too many cooks used to spoil the broth...

Thanks to my facebook readers who gave me some good tips to make this really tasty dish of fried green tomatoes. This constituted yesterday's Sunday lunch, together with a Greek tomato-based salad, and a potato-and-tomato frittata.

©All Rights Reserved/Organically cooked. No part of this blog may be reproduced and/or copied by any means without prior consent from Maria Verivaki.

Monday, 25 July 2011

The scent of Greece (Άρωμα Ελλάδας)

taxi strike The image of summertime Greece has been shattered with the developments in my country. The economic crisis has bought on a new shame to my homeland. "The true Greek spirit left Greece many years ago with the diaspora," says a diaspora Greek, reminding us of the old-fashioned notion that diaspora Greeks have of their mother country - that she should not change, that she should be the same country she was when they left (the last large immigration wave - before the present one - was in the 60s-70s), that Greek society's evolution into a more demanding and less ignorant one somehow does not match their image of Greece, that Greece should show a more stoical acceptance of her suffering, and once again become the 'filipina' of the modern world. Worse still, even the ξένοι have realised that Greek people aren't who they used to be: "It’s crazy; Greece is the only country in the world where Greeks don’t behave like Greeks. Their welfare state, financed by Euro-oil, has bred it out of them," says Thomas Friedman. The crisis signals an end to old Greece, and the start of a new one. But where are all the good Greek people? Gone to greener pastures, Paul Whitefield says: "... all the hardworking, frugal, responsible Greeks left and came to America," he tells us. Cry, the beloved country!

Greece has changed - or has she? The following photographs were all taken yesterday or in the previous week.

olive tree trunk discarded pottery
Some things are timeless...
  french window cactus plant

the onion seller mediterranean garden
... because some things can't change.
the mediterranean sea tomatoes and onions drying under the fig and mulberry trees

It's not only Greek Greeks that have changed; the diaspora is different too.  

"My family are all fine, but they're kiwis now," a visiting down-under diaspora Greek friend said to me, just a couple of hours before I published this post.

"That's not a bad thing", I answered. 

taverna meal
Άρωμα Ελλάδας - The scent of Greece
summertime greece

"Yeah, but it leaves me with a lump in my throat," she replied. "Δεν ξέρουν τι σημαίνει 'άρωμα Ελλάδας' ".

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Monday, 18 July 2011

The Cretan diet off the shores of the island (Η Κρητική διατροφή μακριά από το νησί)

The 1st Symposium of Greek Gastronomy took place in the former primary school of the mountain village of Karanou, Hania. The Symposium focussed on Cretan cuisine from a variety of aspects: archaeological evidence, wild foraged greens, the evolution of the Cretan diet, migration and the evolution of Cretan wine. Together with Fusun Ertag and Ozlem Yasayanlar, our presentations involved the Cretan diet off the shores of the island.

It's often believed that Cretan Turks in the population exchange introduced Anatolia to foraged wild greens, but Fusun Ertug produced evidence to the contrary, of Turks living in areas that were not affected by the population exchange, who live inland, quite far away from the Aegean or Mediterranean coastline, who also use foraged greens in their daily diet.


Watch live streaming video from greekfoodblogs at livestream.com

My contribution then followed, in which I spoke about the importance of food as an element of a person's identity. (Due to technical glitches, my presentation appears in all three video parts of the Symposium that I present in this post).

Watch live streaming video from greekfoodblogs at livestream.com

Ozlem Yasayanlar who now lives in Izmir (she is also a food blogger: http://ozlemaki.blogspot.com) made a particularly moving speech (in Greek) about the search for her Cretan roots, as the descendant of Cretan Turks who left the island, never to return to what they considered their homeland, when she tried to answer the question: 'why can a third-generation Muslim Cretan living in Asia Minor, who has never seen the island, still act and live and eat like a Cretan, even a hundred years after the population exchange?'
Watch live streaming video from greekfoodblogs at livestream.com
On Saturday evening, the local cooks of Karanou village presented a range of the meals that displayed the variety of dishes used in the daily diet of the village, the one that they raised their families on, and continue to cook on a daily basis. You can see the photos of these meals on my facebook page. But even if you aren't on facebook, if you read this blog regularly, you have probably already seen them...
 The cooks of Karanou stand behind their meals at the buffet table
What particularly aroused my curiosity was how similar the traditional Cretan meals I cook for my own family are to theirs, which shows a continuity over the generations, even in the modern globalised world that we are required to live in, in the food of the island, using all the edible resources, both wild and cultivated, available to us, as Fusun's Turkish anecdote proves:
"If a cow and a Cretan woman come to your garden, just keep the cow, because she will eat what she needs and then stop. Get rid of the Cretan woman, because she will remove everything from the garden."
Cretan cuisine is an inseparable part of the Cretan identity, even when it becomes just a memory in the third-generation members of the Cretan-Greek diaspora. As the saying goes: "The first generation leaves, the second returns, and the third looks for its roots."
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Friday, 15 July 2011

Tselementes (Ο Τσελεμεντές)

Here's a taster of the kinds of issues I will be discussing in my contribution to the First Symposium of Greek Gastronomy on Cretan Cuisine, taking place this weekend in the village of Karanou.

It wasn't that my mother didn't know how to cook. She knew how to make a meal tasty, she knew how to adapt a meal when it wasn't up to par, she could cook from pretty much anything. I remember my mother's cooking as very good work, and she was a dab hand at handling a stove full of pots cooking away on all four elements with a roast in the oven and a couple of salads under way. To think, she had never learnt to cook on a gas/electric range in Crete, but that never stopped her from recreating Cretan dishes. And she never used a cookbook, mainly because in her early years in New Zealand, she never had one. Cookbooks were unknown to her until she migrated.

Suddenly it seemed that a cookbook was indispensable. It was as necessary as, as, as sandblasted ballerinas on concertina glass-panelled doors separating the lounge from the dining room, china figurines on the mantelpiece, antimacassar crochet doilies on the armchair head and armrests. It was what everyone seemed to be buying at the time, and she wanted to add such a book to her collection of things that made her feel like the urban woman that she had become, from the rural girl that she once was. She felt the need to own a cookbook, because it represented progress.

Her husband never complained about her food, but he would often ask her to cook things that she didn't actually know how to cook. Like Haniotiki kreatotourta. It was something she never made in her own family home up in the mountains. She had heard about it from some other Cretan women in the low-lying village that her family moved to after their father decided to sell all the family property in the mountains. But it wasn't part of her own family's cuilinary tradition.

My mother's cooking notes

When she moved to New Zealand, she took with her a notebook where she had started to record ingredients and recipes from about the time just before she left Crete. To these notes, she added bits and pieces she had picked up form the other immigrant  Greek women she met up with in her new homeland: paximathakia, melomakarona, halvas, recipes she had probably never tried up in the mountains. Her knowledge of Greek food, up until that time, consisted mainly of standard daily Greek lunchtime fare, eg fasolada, makaronada, yemista, as well as some Cretan favorites like kalitsounia. She wanted her knowledge of urban Greek cuisine to be more complete. So on her first visit back home, she went to a bookshop in Hania and bought herself a Tselementes, which she put into her suitcase, ready to be used in her modern New Zealand kitchen. 

Tselementes

After the trip back home, after she had gotten over jetlag and packed away all her things, including the mementoes and souvenirs she had brought back with her, she took out her new cookbook and began poring over its contents. To her dismay, it contained many words and concepts that she did not understand, had never heard of and couldn't pronounce: jellied ham, cold poached eggs, Mont Blanc dessert, millefeuille, among others; What on earth were these foods?!

The Tselementes was put on a bookshelf, and never used. My mother continued to cook the food she identified with, which was daily Greek fare, and festive Cretan dishes. My mother was simply expressing her identity with the food she cooked. Tselementes was trying to divert her attention away from her identity. It didn't work.

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Friday, 8 July 2011

Our apricot tree (Η βερυκοκιά μας)

While I'm preparing my contribution for the First Symposium of Greek Gastronomy on Cretan Cuisine, here's an idea of what I have also been preparing food-wise at home.

apricot treeapricot treeOver the years, we've had many fruit trees in our garden. We used to have peach and nectarine, which both did well, but attracted too many pests, orange (we got tired of it, since we also own orange orchards), loquat (which didn't really do well) and plum, which dried up and died after serving us well for a number of years. Now we have a young lemon, a budding pomegranate and a shrubby lychee tree, while in the same position as the plum tree, there is now an apricot tree.

Most years, the apricot tree produced a very abundant crop, but about a third of the fruit was often lost to infestations of various pests, mainly little white worms. This year's crop - magically - managed to avoid such infestations, so the crop from that one tree was enormous.

 apricot harvest
This represents about a third of this year's harvest, from just one tree...

Apart from eating the fruit just as it was or giving it away, I found (through readers' suggestions on my facebook page) a range of delicious transformations for it. Some of the recipes are for eating right away, while other were for preserving; what's more, they don't need refrigeration, which means I'm saving on energy too.

JUST ONE TREE...

apricot jam
Apricot jam: Fruit jam, made when the fruit is ripe and full of seasonal flavour, never fails to remind you of summer and the more bountiful seasons.

apricot upside down cake
Apricot cake: I love fruit-filled desserts, and they go very well with ice-cream in the summer season. This upside-down apricot cake can also be made with fresh pears (which will be in season soon after the apricot season ends). Apricot crumble also comes to mind, as I remember making with plums, as does apricot clafoutis.

drying apricots drying apricots
Dried apricots: Drying fruit and vegetables was once very common in rural Crete. It's still popular for tomatoes, figs and raisins. This is going to make a nice addition to breakfast cereal. I dipped these apricot halves in orange juice, then let them dry partially in the oven and in the sun. These didn't last till winter - they were too tasty: 'Mmmm, they taste like jelly fruit, don't they Mum?!'

apricot ice cream sorbet
Apricot ice-cream sorbet: This idea was born from a series of kitchen mistakes that came about from my kids: my daughter wanted to make a creme caramel dessert, but when I poured the hot caramel onto a beautiful ceramic dish - the only one in my house that wasn't chipped - it cracked!; I had already made the custard, so I made another batch of caramel and poured it onto another tin with a removable base (but the mixture leaked out of the dish!; then I decided to make a pavlova with the egg whites that had remained from the custard making (but the day was hot and the pavlova meringue fell flat!; I had bought some cream to whip up and give the pavlova more body (but the cream, being 'lite', didn't whip thick enough! Having been instructed on making ice-cream by another blog reader, I had some idea of how to make ice-cream!

apricot chutney apricot chutney
Apricot chutney: Chutney is like a sweet-and-sour jam, something that comes between making marmalade and tomato sauce. the original recipe used peaches; I also changed some of the spices to suit Cretan tastes (I added some dried bay leaves). Chutney is generally not well-known in Cretan cooking - and I don't really know how it's going to be received when I begin to serve it; I'm looking forward to having it with pork steak and roast chicken.

'canned' apricots
And last, but not least, my daughter's invention, fruit salad: Apricots, like peaches, are often sold canned in syrup. This is the beast way to preserve peaches, because peach is bruise-prone and highly susceptible to post-harvest damage. After trying some peaches in syrup as a store-bought treat, my daughter 'recreated' the recipe at home, using apricots (which she thought looked like peaches), chopped and placed in a cup of orange juice. Processed food makes a great impression on all of us, because it's often very tasty!

JUST ONE TREE!

Some of these recipes are very new for my family, and it will no doubt take a little while to get used to eating in new ways. But I look forward to eating the preserves during the less fruitful colder months to come, when the garden won't be so productive, and Greece will find herself in the midst of a difficult period of austerity. The preserving looks like a lot of work, but don't be afraid of it. You just need to plan ahead; I prepared all this food in the space of one week, while I was taking part of my annual leave from work, necessitated partly by Greek unionised state sector strike action, and partly by the very long school Greek summer holiday period, primary schools close in mid-June and re-open in mid-September, which simply creates havoc for most working mothers.

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Friday, 1 July 2011

My food, my identity (Το φαγητό μου, η ταυτότητά μου)

My food is closely tied to my identity. This is something I have known all my life. I had a very conscious idea about it since I was old enough to realise that I was not just a member of my family, but the society I lived in, and most of the time during my formative years, these did not often coincide. My family's food and the society's food were quite different, distinguishable according to the senses of sight, smell, touch and taste; if food could speak, then my family's food would probably have differed markedly from my society's food in that aspect, too.

By writing this blog, without actually realising it at the time, I was basically trying to put together the pieces of my own identity. So I view it as a privilege to have been asked to speak about the relationship of food and identity at the First Symposium of Greek Gastronomy on Cretan Cuisine, which will be taking place in mid-July, in the village of Akaranou, Hania, Crete.

How is food related to identity? I would like to talk about the relationship I have found in food and identity, using thoughts and discussions from writing this food blog and interacting with readers (yes, that's you), using the following ideas as my guide:
  • our mothers' food
  • the food of the society we live in
  • migration patterns
  • the food we associate with festivals
  • the role of education in our perception of food
  • the memories we associate with food
  • commerce and trade
I've set myself a huge task, one that needs the skills of a historian, anthropologist, sociologist, political scientist, psychologist and educator (among others), most of whose specialities I have only a rudimentary knowledge of. So I will not attempt to give a definitive answer to this question: my views on food are too limited. Instead, I will summarise what I have learnt about my food identity over the last four years that I have been blogging about it - and that's all thanks to you.

staycation balcony lunch vamvakopoulo hania chania

See you in a couple or so weeks!

©All Rights Reserved/Organically cooked. No part of this blog may be reproduced and/or copied by any means without prior consent from Maria Verivaki.