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Friday 19 November 2010

Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity (Πολιτιστική Κληρονομιά)

The Mediterranean diet has been safeguarded!

The recently convened (15-19 November) UNESCO INTERGOVERNMENTAL COMMITTEE FOR THE SAFEGUARDING OF THE INTANGIBLE CULTURAL HERITAGE made the following decisions at the Fifth session, in Nairobi, Kenya:

The Committee
1. Takes note that Spain, Greece, Italy and Morocco have nominated the Mediterranean diet for inscription on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, described as follows:
The Mediterranean diet constitutes a set of skills, knowledge, practices and traditions ranging from the landscape to the table, including the crops, harvesting, fishing, conservation, processing, preparation and, particularly, consumption of food. The Mediterranean diet is characterized by a nutritional model that has remained constant over time and space, consisting mainly of olive oil, cereals, fresh or dried fruit and vegetables, a moderate amount of fish, dairy and meat, and many condiments and spices, all accompanied by wine or infusions, always respecting beliefs of each community. However, the Mediterranean diet (from the Greek diaita, or way of life) encompasses more than just food. It promotes social interaction, since communal meals are the cornerstone of social customs and festive events. It has given rise to a considerable body of knowledge, songs, maxims, tales and legends. The system is rooted in respect for the territory and biodiversity, and ensures the conservation and development of traditional activities and crafts linked to fishing and farming in the Mediterranean communities which Soria in Spain, Koroni in Greece, Cilento in Italy and Chefchaouen in Morocco are examples. Women play a particularly vital role in the transmission of expertise, as well as knowledge of rituals, traditional gestures and celebrations, and the safeguarding of techniques.
2. Decides that, from the information provided in nomination file No. 00394, the Mediterranean diet satisfies the criteria for inscription on the Representative List, as follows:
R.1: The Mediterranean diet is a set of traditional practices, knowledge and skills passed on from generation to generation and providing a sense of belonging and continuity to the concerned communities;
R.2: Its inscription on the Representative List could give broader visibility to the diversity of intangible cultural heritage and foster intercultural dialogue at regional and international levels;
R.3: The nomination describes a series of safeguarding efforts undertaken in each country, together with a plan for transnational measures aimed at ensuring transmission to younger generations and promoting awareness of the Mediterranean diet;
R.4: The nomination is the result of close cooperation of official entities in the four States, supported by the active participation of communities, and it includes evidence of the latters’ free, prior and informed consent;
R.5: The Mediterranean diet has been included in inventories of intangible cultural heritage in the four States concerned and will be included in a transnational inventory of the Mediterranean that is underway.
3. Inscribes the Mediterranean diet on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

The same committee also included the gastronomic meal of the French on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity:

"The gastronomic meal of the French is a customary social practice for celebrating important moments in the lives of individuals and groups, such as births, weddings, birthdays, anniversaries, achievements and reunions. It is a festive meal bringing people together for an occasion to enjoy the art of good eating and drinking. The gastronomic meal emphasizes togetherness, the pleasure of taste, and the balance between human beings and the products of nature. Important elements include the careful selection of dishes from a constantly growing repertoire of recipes; the purchase of good, preferably local products whose flavours go well together; the pairing of food with wine; the setting of a beautiful table; and specific actions during consumption, such as smelling and tasting items at the table. The gastronomic meal should respect a fixed structure, commencing with an apéritif (drinks before the meal) and ending with liqueurs, containing in between at least four successive courses, namely a starter, fish and/or meat with vegetables, cheese and dessert. Individuals called gastronomes who possess deep knowledge of the tradition and preserve its memory watch over the living practice of the rites, thus contributing to their oral and/or written transmission, in particular to younger generations. The gastronomic meal draws circles of family and friends closer together and, more generally, strengthens social ties."

Apart from the words in bold in the above text (which differ in terms of the order and range of dishes served in each culture), it should be noted that it isn't ONLY the FRENCH gastronomic meal that encompasses these ideas. Why UNESCO couldn't automatically say at the same convention that all world cuisines are an intangilble heritage of humanity is a mystery. All well-known cuisines in the world encompass the same ideas, not forgetting the fact that all those well-known cuisines have probably influenced one another in some way. To claim otherwise is simply elitist prattle. 

In any case, I was pleased to know that not all the French think in the same way as UNESCO...

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7 comments:

  1. I didn't realize the Mediterranean diet always included a cheese course.

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  2. not that i know of either, certainly not in crete, as a course on its own - i've highlighted the paragraph in bold as the only part in the French text that would differ (as i state in the last paragraph)

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  3. I didn't miss your highlighted part, but I was disconcerted by the "elitist prattle" remark.

    I don't disagree with your premise that "all world cuisines are an intangilble heritage of humanity" - it is totally correct- but the French gastronomic meal isn't one that takes place daily.

    The smelling and tasting of unique dishes, cheeses, sauces, wines, is almost MORE important in the French 'gastronomic meal' than the social interactions. It's a uniquely French "thing". The festivity wouldn't be fun if the mousseline wasn't just "so" or the cheese wasn't properly "runny" for instance.

    This cannot be said of the Med diet, nor for that matter of getting together and enjoying a meal at a wedding, a baptism or a name day! The Greeks eat well, and they enjoy good food and wine. But they will enjoy the food and wine because they're in company with family and friends.

    The French will not enjoy it if the food and wine are just "ok". It's must be special. (I have been to a dinner that was ruined for an old uncle because the Bernaise sauce tasted "packaged"!)

    The food is not the most important issue with the Med diet. (YES fresh is totally important, and so is "well prepared... I am not dis'ing Greek food (or Italian or Moroccan) at all) but though IT IS important it's not to the exclusion of everything else- a gastronomic meal exalts the food.

    It is elitist, it's the way the French are about food. (tho I think this is changing and that might be why there's a recognition of it before it disappears)

    I certainly think the phrasing could have been clearer, and maybe that would have not upset you, but in a way, the French and their food are to Europe what Cretan food is to Greece... just that little bit "more".

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  4. my husband isnt french, hes cretan; if the French gastronomic meal isnt one that takes place daily, i can tell you that for my husband, the cretan gastronomic meal IS a daily one, no matter how simple it looks.
    the smelling/tasting of unique dishes,cheeses, sauces,wines is very important in his and many other typical cretans lives (hes certainly not unique); i find your claim that its a uniquely French thing difficult to believe. Food 'wasnt so?' Food wasnt 'just right?' Well yes, this is why he often doesnt like my food! (we dont write it all in the blog, do we?)
    Im not mixing up the Med diet with the French gastronomic meal, which you seem to think i am; the decisions about the med diet (which doesnt mention crete) and the french gastronomic meal (which french chefs claim is difficult to define in modern times -see link) were made at the same meeting, but ive treated them as separate topics; ive simply stated that what constitutes a french gastronomic meal as defined could easily apply to all cuisines and food cultures in the world
    Who told you that the greeks only enjoy the food and wine because they're in company with family and friends?????!! You cant have mixed with enough greeks to say this - the greeks are as varied as the french in their make-up: some come from lowlands, others from highlands, some are islanders, others are mainlanders, some are urban, others are rural: but they all share a common culture which is immediately picked up on when and nurtured when (for instance) they are out of the country; this is how they 'know' when the melomakarono is 'just right' or the avgolemono was 'perfect' (etc)
    so you know that a dinner can be ruined because the Bernaise sauce tasted "packaged" - great, now tell me why the freshest most high-quality ingredients cant always make a greek gastronome happy (Answer: because the stew was too soupy, or the soup was too stewy; ie they werent cooked perfectly in the way s/he recalls the combination and texture of the various ingredients)
    Obviously, you dont deny the word 'elitist' since you say that this is how the french think; have you had experience of greek immigrants, and how they try to find their own food in a foreign country which (for many years until only recently) didnt usually accomodate for them in the general stores? this of course explains why people used to (ha ha - they still try to) sneak their food into a foreign country (horta seeds are the most notorious ones).
    i know that the locals in crete have this high reverence for their own cuisine which is also well-known in other parts of greece; but i also have experience of how greatly the cuisines of other parts of greece are also revered - but it's not my job to acclaim them here as i have little experience of eating and cooking in their manners, therefore, i cant agree with you when you say that 'the French and their food are to Europe what Cretan food is to Greece' - and i bet that many people in greece will deny this too

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  5. here's something that someone recently wrote on my facebook page about this topic:
    "Yes Maria, you are correct, all meals of all cultures are part of their heritage. The problem is that the French: a)have the guts to say it, and b)know how to market their culture and products. Something the Greeks have yet to work on, unfortunately"

    to prove the final point made in the above comment, here is a link that shows how a greek restaurant outside greece is marketing its menu:
    http://kansas.realestaterama.com/2010/11/01/my-big-fat-greek-restaurant-grand-opening-november-3-ID0124.html

    Elitist people have always wanted to make their food look/be/sound different from what the masses eat - in this link
    http://eater.com/archives/2010/11/16/nigella-lawson-eaterrogation.php
    Nigella lawson tells us her opinion about locavorism: "In the Victorian age the peasants just ate local and in season and the aristocracy spent fortunes building greenhouses and growing pineapples. It was a class issue. Now the masses can get out of season produce. So what do the elite do? They say 'If it is not seasonal, if it is not local, it isn't good."
    Again, more food racism...

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  6. You've made many good points and I agree with everything you say. You're right. Of course, I'm wrong.

    Btw, no one told me "greeks only enjoy their food and wine because they're in company with family and friends" - that was purely a subjective and obviously wrong idea developed from a wide array of 17 years of meals with Greeks- from 5 years spent mostly in Athens (but traveling to many of the islands beautiful Crete included!) going to many different restaurants with all economic strata of Greeks for both business and pleasure; to the last 12 years living retired, here on Corfu, eating with everyone from the local shepherd at the village fete to the Greek Honorary Irish Consul in his home (sit down dinner for 18 with the most amazing Greek delicacies in a meal that lasted over 4 hours and it started at 10 pm!)

    Of course I've met picky Greek eaters- and I have met gourmand Greeks (but they always seemed to come from Crete, lol!).

    Naturally, I have met Greeks who will tell me exactly how their mother made the Αυγολέμονο uniquely and how no one else could possibly come close to the unique flavor only SHE could achieve.

    One of the best things I will always love about Greeks tho is that they can be at a christening or a wedding or a birthday party and the food can be downright awful, the homemade wine so-so and the music too loud but their family and their friends are around them and the joy of being together overcomes all those things.

    In the article you refer to regarding the French not being able to decide what the gastronomic meal was, there was a really good part about how it's evolving and including new things in it all the time. It also said that much of the hoopla was being caused by the media "interpreting" things.

    As for what a gastronomic meal actually IS (and what UNESCO meant when they classified it)

    I found this vid on YouTube

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6nKBBb72J4k

    - there were parts that made me smile, like where the little boy was learning how to make mayonnaise (i think it was his grandmother or auntie teaching him) - my grandmother did exactly the same thing in exactly the same way when she taught me how to make mayonnaise at just about the same age.

    The last time my husband and I were with my French family, we only had to enjoy (not make the mayonnaise)...

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  7. thanks for the video link (very interesting)

    ps - i have made mayonaise once, but because it didnt remind me of the gloopy shop-bought heinz stuff, i felt unsure that it was 'real' mayonaise!

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