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Wednesday 15 October 2008

Economic crisis? (Οικονομική κρίση;)

Today is the day the powers that be have designated as World Poverty Day. The images usually associated with poverty are hungry black children living in slums. With the recent economic crisis, poverty might take on a new meaning. Poverty in developing countries does not compare to poverty in developed countries. Let's not forget that poverty in developed countries partly has to do with how much debt an individual has accrued on a credit card (needs are satisfied without being paid for), while in developing countries, poverty has to do with not being able to acquire basic needs in the first place.

In developed countries, people don't have to spend a lot of money on food. They can fill their stomachs with hi-fat, hi-carb, low-nutrient-value food at a fraction of the cost people in developing countries pay for their food. Those same poor people are also the fattest people in the country. In terms of food shopping, poor people will buy cheap food. It is a sorry state of affairs that the cheapest food is also the least nutritious, and this trend is unlikely to cease. What do people do food-wise to economise? Eat cheap takeaways, for one, and buy ready food from discount supermarkets. I'm not an economist, so please forgive me if I get my facts wrong in this, but I don't think I'm deluded when I say that I believe the average Cretan family won't be doing this. Somewhere, some place, something is growing freely, cultivated by someone who is harvesting in excess, and giving it away to somebody who will somehow prepare it into a tasty edible that will be shared out among family members who may not have the time to cook. Of course, takeaways are also available, but if you have a plate of nutritious food placed before you, you won't even think about fast food.

The summer garden is now in recession, so there's a lull period in our harvest. If we were subsistence farmers (without a salaried or freelance career), we'd be having trouble finding food now. So many food bloggers have praised the merits of nettles: apparently, they reduce allergies, cleanse your blood, relieve pain, stop hair loss and bleeding, lower your blood pressure, aid in digestion and kill germs; it's about time I tried them myself. The nettles in our garden are prospering in the autumn climate, so they'll be making their way into my greens pies from now on until the spinach starts to grow.

Poverty levels in Greece are said to be the highest (along with Portugal) in the EU-15. This also correlates with low average salaries in these countries. These statements must be viewed in context: Greece always had a lower average salary than for other European countries, and this became more prevalent once the euro was introduced. The meaning of poverty may be a universal one, but it does not ring the same tone when it is used in different countries. Greeks don't live in mud-huts, for instance, no matter how poor they are. And the economy of Greece has never operated in the same way as the economy of the more developed countries of Europe.

For a start, Greek banks never lend money cheaply. If you borrow money in Greece, be prepared to pay it back with a huge interest rate. Cheap housing loans are very carefully monitored by the state; there are a number of pre-conditions that must be met before a cheap loan will be meted out to anyone, and it involves a huge amount of paperwork. People often take out loans to buy their first home, which usually means an apartment, or to build their first home, usually on land that their family already had in their possession, or at least owned freehold. This effectively means that a family who builds a new house will expect to be living in that house for a long time.

The second point is related to this last fact: in Greece, you do not buy (or build) a property with a short-term view to owning it. You do not play the buy-and-sell game with ancestral land. You just keep it, until a good opportunity arises to use it. If you do end up selling it, you were either in desperate need of cash, or the property did not get used in the way it was intended (eg to be lived in by a descendant), and maintaining it was more costly than getting rid of it.

Take a friend of mine, whose husband inherited a piece of land from his parents in an inner-city neighbourhood. The area is considered working class, but the value of the land as real estate is quite high, given its proximity to the main town. It is not a visually appealing neighbourhood, but this has nothing whatsoever to do with the value of the property. They took out a loan seven years ago and built a house. Then they took out a second loan and built another house on top of that house, "for the kids," a common practice in Greece, saving land and property for your offspring. They've been living there for the last seven years and their children are in their late teens: how likely is it that they are thinking of selling this house? Extremely unlikely, I think. This story is typical of many of my friends, colleagues and acquaintances. We belong to the same category, regardless of the area where we live, the money we earn, the cars we drive. Some of us simply have more money at our disposal, according to the work we are involved in. But land and housing remain a stable part of a person's life: you buy land to keep it or build on it, and once you own a house, you live in it for a long time.

Property loans seemed to cause the greatest damage in the recent US crisis, which had a domino effect on all the other countries affected. As for the sharemarket, this isn't what the average Cretan does with his/her money. If there's a lot of extra cash in someone's possession, they'll be using it to buy more land, or build more properties that they'll rent out until the family needs them for accommodation. The properties won't be sold off; they will be built to be kept in the family. The only exception is 'rural land', which is sold at 'ballooned' prices to foreign property investors - I think they'll be in trouble now (after the Greeks got their money).

What if they don't want to build or buy land? Then the money stays in the bank. The bank has loads of cash available for loans, so the bank doesn't have a cash flow problem. There's loads of money in Greek banks. Who are the greatest savers, by the way? The Albanians, according to a recent news report. They make and save money in exactly the same way that Greek migrants did when they were leaving Greece and going to places like Australia, New Zealand and Canada, which is why most of them ended up with their own properties in those countries too (Albanians are also property owners in Greece). The government only last week raised the guaranteed pay-out sum of a bank account, should a bank go bust, from 20,000 to 100,000 euro. Surely the government isn't kidding when they say that the Greek banking system is stable.

A lot of less knowledgeable Greeks doubted the validity of the government's promises, thanks to the dependence of Greek TV news (both state and private channels) on reporting the economic crisis in the rest of the world. The best place to keep your money is under your mattress, said one English economist. Your house will lose its value, said another. This kind of reporting caused many people to panic without reason. Greece just doesn't follow the rest of the world; they're always doing their own thing. You don't come to Greece to earn money or gain work experience, do you? You come to Greece to see the islands, get a good tan, and indulge yourself in high-quality nightlife. If Greece suffers, it's going to be next summer when the package tourists can't come because they can't afford it because their country is in recession after the recent economic crisis. If anything, this is going to give Greece a chance to catch up to the rest of the world (or that the rest of the world will lower their standards and come back to our earthly levels), but I doubt that this will mean that Greeks will start thinking the same way money-wise as the rest of the world. We're still going to keep our land and houses.

We relied heavily on our summer garden these past few months, something the average lawn-mowing, flower-growing Westerner doesn't (or, weather-wise, can't) do, another reason to need to buy cheap food, since they can't grow it themselves. Now that autumn has set in and the sun isn't always shining every day, there is a lull period in our harvest, a good thing, because I can now see the back of the fridge, I have to supplement our vegetable needs with bought produce. The economic crisis didn't stop me from spending 17 euro just last Monday to buy all these delicious vegetables: locally grown (not necessarily organic) okra and stamnagathi (no more vlita - amaranth - greens in the garden; they've all gone to seed in preparation for next summer), apples from the mainland, the last of the summer sweetcorn harvest, kiwifruit from New Zealand and some very sweet baby Cretan bananas grown in Iraklio (150km away). We may not earn much (my present employment situation could constitute a whole blog's worth of posts), but our food is still nutritious.

fresh produce october hania chania

And where did I find all these goodies? There are two greengrocers in the vicinity of my children's after-school activity groups. One sells mainly local produce, some of which is organic by default (eg wild greens picked from uncultivated hillside fields), while the other sells high quality fruit and vegetables imported from around the country. There is also an organic supplies shop (named after the goddess of the Earth, Gaia) located in between these two stores, and everything is within walking distance. If my children weren't involved in club activities, I wouldn't have bothered to shop from these stores, mainly because they are a little too far away from my house. I probably would have bought my extra needs from the local supermarket. Instead, I am now supporting small shops; my guess is most Greeks living in main centres still do this anyway.

stadium hania chania
(west: the tennis and chess clubs; east: another local produce shop; north: the local produce shop; south: the town centre, starting with our own form of Big Ben in the municipal gardens)
clock hania chania

But it's still easy to fall prey to those TV people, who've been forecasting doom and gloom for the past two weeks. On Saturday night, I asked my husband what he would like to have for lunch the next day.

"Let's go out," he suggested.

"Let's save our money," I replied; I had been sucked into the panic created by the media. I took out some goat meat from the deep freeze to make a tsigariasto meat stew and sliced some aubergines in preparation for eggplant pizza. It would have been so wasteful not to have used the garden produce after all, in these hard times.

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16 comments:

  1. Though I'm of Greek descent, I've never lived in Greece. I was shocked to hear from some of my Greek colleagues how poor salaries are in Greece - even for educated and skilled people.

    It is now wonder that so many Greeks leave their country to find greener pastures.

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  2. The saving culture and the non existence of the house as investment rather than home mentality marks Greece as vastly different from the rest of Europe.

    I watch what is happening in the world and after the subprime mortgage collapse in the US last summer (these things always happen when I am about to visit Crete......) it was apparent that all banks were linked and it was only a matter of time before the domino effect happened. It looks like that is happening now. Our recent trip to Crete may be the last one for a year or two. I shall be preparing my garden for growing vegetables for the coming year. I see electricity prices going up here already and fuel has dipped in price in time for winter luckily (we use oil heating). Living in N. Ireland, land prices are astronomically high so buying land is only a dream as I don't have lots of money.

    I can see the recession affecting Crete in this way, less tourists, which will have an adverse effect on the Cretan economy.

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  3. A very interesting post Maria. You've certainly covered the whole gamut of scenarios. I can only talk from my perspective but when I visited Greece the first question I was asked is "How much do you earn?" followed by "How much sindaxi will you get when you retire?". Maybe it was my relatives and they were nosey bastards! My parents (who moved back there last year after 40 years in Oz!...) say that it's common for economics to be discussed so blatantly! The cab drivers in Athens (who did spark up interesting conversation) were in the opinion that that a lot of the youth were busy buying "mihanakia" (LOL!) on credit and defaulting all the time. He also went on to say about how Greece was ripped off in the Euro changeover!

    Anyway I should write up my own thing on this...you've given me energy with this! But I will agree with you...come next summer. tourist numbers will be down...maybe then they will "feel" it in the tourist industries!

    Phew!

    Ola Kala

    Παναγιωτης

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  4. There is more than one "Greek Way" at play throughout the world. Those that have property in Greece, and those that left because they had nothing to lose. My grandparents all left Greece for the US in the early 1900's, the lessons they taught us were quite different than the one you share here. Both are valid and wonderful lessons of family.

    Specifically, the inheriting of a house or land from your family. When there was no house or land to inherit, many hardworking Greeks left for a better life. They taught their children to take risks, work hard, and stand on your own.

    To not expect to get something for nothing, and to buy what you can afford. This would include your own piece of land, in a neighborhood that you could afford at that particular time in your life. As circumstances changed, financial, marriage, family, so did your place of residence. The buying and selling of houses in the US historically was based on these circumstances. Unlike in Greece, and other parts of Europe, where were people are given/inherit land and houses that may be beyond their means, because they don't have to pay for it, Greek-Americans tended to make it on their own.

    Of course we all know that is not how it played out for many in both countries. But starting with nothing, as many Americans do, does result in a different scenario. We are looking for a good quality of life, a decent home, surrounded by people who care about us. Some of us just have to start with a little less...

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  5. Vey interesting post indeed. The economic situation is quite serious this time! Oh my GOLD!!!

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  6. Our tourism will suffer, but don't forget that tourists come to Greece on pre-booked packages - the deals are already organised from their own country, so we will still have tourists next year, but the hoteliers who close the deals will be getting a lower price.

    Greeks are on very low salaries. But we also enjoy a better quality of life. Remember, our entertainment is good, our weather is good, our family is always around to help us - all this compensates for our low pay. Just think how important these things are in your life and how easy it is to find solutions when you don't have these back-ups.

    When I came to Crete, I suffered a massive drop in income, but I knew I wasn't going to be able to ask for more money, since people come to live in Crete because they like the quality of life, not because they have high expectations for a good job and/or salary!

    Greeks are not being nosy when asking about your salary - it's just that salary does take up a significant amount of discussion, and no wonder, what with the cost of living: Greeks just love to have all the mod cons and many are forgetting past hardships, but with the economic crisis, what goes round comes round. They're going to have to tighten their belt too.

    The way people think is also changing over generations. My parents left Greece for New Zealand in the mid-60s. They each arrived with just one suitcase. They also thought in the same way that Greek-Americans thought: "I have nothing, but I will work hard, and I want to make something out of my life, especially for a better future/the benefit of my children."

    Nowadays, Greeks are also thinking about themselves: they travel more than their parents' generation, and they are more indulgent. But if they have children, they are constantly thinking their future, which is what all Greeks, past and present, work for at heart, whether they live in Greece or abroad.

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  7. I long to have as much produce as you do! And our "lull" will last about 8 months.

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  8. I think you're confusing bankruptcy with poverty. Running up credit card debt is an activity of the middle class. Poor people generally don't have access to credit, one of the reasons that they're poor.

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  9. As I stated in the post, I'm not an economist. My view is just the way I see things as, I hope, an informed citizen. In Greece, everyone who owns a telephone line has access to credit - banks phone us at least once a week asking if we would like to take out a credit card or a loan (which I politely, although I was once a lot ruder). A bank I use keeps sending me letters every two months telling me what a special customer I am (even though I only have a current account there), which is why they are offering me a loan (which I don't need) with a specially reduced interest rate (of course I don't take up the offer). Surely they do this to a lot of people, some of whom aren't as prudent as I am, hence run up a huge amount of debt.

    When I think of poverty, my mind conjures up images of people who are unemployed or unemployable, cannot afford to live in appropriate accommodation, and do not have access to information, decent nutrition and hygiene. In developed countries, these people are usually urban residents. In the US, they are the ones who were given cheap housing loans they couldn't re-pay: they had access to credit but they didn't have the means to pay it back.

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  10. You Greeks have a lot to teach the rest of the world about how to live in the Old World style with less worry.

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  11. intersting. it's cool that you have produce in your garden, as well as other local produce. must taste quite good, fresh and all.

    indeed. i hope tourism isn't affected so much. over here, we benefit from tourism quite a bit as well.

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  12. Very fascinating post. I'm glad you're able to support the small local shops - I'd like to do that more too. We have a farmers' market every few weeks and the local veg they sell there is delicious.

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  13. I'm not sure how necessary it is for the poor to buy only food that's not nutritious. It's certainly true that lower income families can't buy organic produce or anything like that, but it's not clear to me how much families buy cheap food out of necessity, and how much they buy such food out of choice.

    I cannot talk about the truly poor, but my experience with some people who have lower incomes has jaded me somewhat. I don't want to be callous, but I unfortunately regularly encounter people who chose to buy cheap, bad food (because they say they can't afford it) but then spend their money on things like beer and cable tv... These people aren't poor, but I see their financial situation become worse and worse -- at some point they will drop to the level of poverty, and I'm sorry to say that they won't have prevented it.

    About two years ago, as a student living on my own and living off of a government loan, I found that I was able to save many times as much as people in the exact same situation as I was. While I didn't buy organic, I certainly didn't eat cheaply: I regularly had nice cuts of meat, cheeses and a variety of fresh produce. If I may be pardoned for boasting, the difference between me and my fellow students was our priorities: my top two priorities were saving money and my health (i.e. eating properly), and I made whatever other sacrifices I needed to so that I could reach these goals. Other students said that these were their goals as well, but wouldn't blink an eye spending $50-100 / week going to pubs. And they would balk at the suggestion that they could make their own chicken stock (too much work!) and so spend 4 times the amount on store bought bouillon cubes.

    In the generation of my grandparents, people saved and ate home cooked, healthy food. These two things require work and sacrifice, values that are somehow outdated now. I'm not saying we should all live a Spartan existence, eschewing all luxuries so that we can squeeze another penny into our savings accounts, but the other extreme is extremely dangerous.

    When I lived in Greece, one of the things that astonished -- and scared -- me was the attitude of people my age (at the time, around 20). They vacationed on their parents' credit cards, spent whatever money they owned on clothes or going to clubs, and many of them couldn't boil pasta if you started it for them... Whatever Greek values you discussed in your post -- the same values that I was brought up with -- are going to disappear (and Greece will be in the same trouble as the West!) if Greek parents continue to raise children who have no life skills and can't save a dime. They think they're protecting them from the hardships they faced, but in reality they're creating a much more worrisome situation.

    Sorry for the rambling -- your blog touched on a number of things I happen to be quite opinionated on! (And as always, you write wonderfully!)

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  14. Dear Christina, you’ve just mentioned everything my husband and I discuss at home when the whole family meets up for lunch, the kinds of things I couldn’t write about in an ‘objective’ post. We often complain about our fellow Greeks being over-materialistic, and their exaggerated interest in the latest fashion in everything, not to mention giving their kids everything they want – a clear case of keeping up with the Jones.

    Those 20-year olds still living off their parents’ money and not being able to prepare a meal for themselves seem like the worst case of all to me too. As I have children of my own, I often wonder whether I am going to see in my children the same thing that I see happening in other families. The truth is that it’s hard to live and work on your own in Greece (in reality, it’s impossible to be completely independent), but I am appalled when I see what young people do when they get their hands on some cash – saving it, opening a bank account, planning what to do with it is always out of the question. They are generally not taught to save – it’s something their parents do for them, and I suppose something they will do for their own kids, although, as you said, the world is changing, and they may not be able to do this. There are plenty of people living beyond their means now in Greece.

    As for those people who make cheap food choices, I know exactly what you mean – their clothes, cars, holidays, you name it, never look as cheap as the food on their plate. Some Greeks are lucky in that they have a family member cooking for them while they are at work, but again, I wonder how likely this will continue in the current climate of the instant gratification culture. If they’re not cooking now, will they cook for their family later?

    Maintaining a garden, cooking fresh produce, sourcing good quality food – these things take time away from the hairdresser’s, café bars, and a sleep-in after a hangover after an all-night out; they also ruin the perfect manicure. By the way, why are all Greek women getting blonder these days? What’s wrong with the natural look?!? It’s OK to have a rant once in a while!

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  15. Very thought provoking post! I think that if I started writing my thoughts I'd never stop-so I'll just say "thank you" for writing yet another excellent post. Have a great weekend!

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  16. I thought that your observations on home and land ownership in Greece and Crete were very astute. People do see home ownership differently here - as more of a transient thing. I think it's partly because part of the "American dream" is to have an ever larger and fancier home, and also because American society sees itself as very mobile. People worry about their home values because their mindset is always open to the possibility of moving. They don't often see themselves as being in a house for twenty or more years, at least in my opinion. Maybe I'm overstating the case, but I think it's a part of it.

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